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Chain Care
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Chain Care
Nowt wrong with a bot o rust !

 

My daughter's boyfriend has been running his new YBR125 through winter and when we were at the Scottish bike show this weekend he complained that the chain was rusting on the side plates. I explained that the critical component is the o-ring area, and as long as that is lubed and not rusty the outer sideplate rust isn't really a sign of a knackered chain (although it is contagious once it sets in)

 

I spin the back wheel while holding a brass wire brush to the outer side (if the chain is really bad), and then chainwax or grease on the outside keeps the plates free from corrosion for a long time and I use any oil, thicker the better, for the o-rings.

 

I used to always run a bike daily through winter on very salty Scottish roads, and if the chain ever developed a tight spot a soak in white spirit (brush cleaner) for a few hours, then hung up to dry for a few hours, then an overnight bath in the old engine oil tray worked wonders.

 

If a chain tightens during winter I keep it going till spring arrives and the salt has gone, then change the C&S...cannot see the point in murdering a new C&S mid winter

<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
I have a lubman oiler fitted, you control frequency and amount, use engine oil. Been on three years now only adjusted chain once about 4k miles per year. oh and cheap to.

Quote:I have a lubman oiler fitted, you control frequency and amount, use engine oil. Been on three years now only adjusted chain once about 4k miles per year. oh and cheap to.
 

Now I really like that. I have found that with me (& Charlie Brown) things that are supposed to "automatically" happen don't.

So I'm going to give one of these a go for the ER6. At that price it wont break the bank if I don't get on with it.
I have always used 90W chainsaw oil. Very sticky and cheap.

 

My chains have never rusted, lasts forever and stays clean.

I used the lubeman oiler when they first came out about 15 or so years ago, and found it to be pretty good. But being a proper tight arse I've made one or two for my later bikes out of an old hand soap bottle and plastic tubing, worked as good if not better than the original squeeze bottle the lubeman.

Filled with engine oil makes a better winter oiler than the scottoiler system, as these tend not to let the oil flow in cold weather, and scottoil washes off at the first sign of rain!
Stop polishing it and ride the bloody thing!

The current stable

04 TDM900. My work/winter/touring donkey.

The Work Of Idle HandsVI :- 2016 Yamaha XSR900 with a few tweeks:badgerrock:
Scottoiler here. I've been using engine oil/gear oil in it for years as I'm too tight to buy proper Scottoil (although I do have some at the moment as it was donated to me). Generally, I get about 28-30k miles from a chain and sprocket set, with the front sprocket wearing first. 

Quote:I have always used 90W chainsaw oil. Very sticky and cheap.

 

My chains have never rusted, lasts forever and stays clean.
 

I have some 100W chain saw oil. How do you apply yours
Quote: 

I have some 100W chain saw oil. How do you apply yours
 

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2002 TDM900 Yellow
Lol

 

Think I might try the engine oil in my scottoiler loike wot Trev does. Smile 

 

I'd prolly brush it on Sam.

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I saw this stuff in a shop the other day...
is it ok for a bike chain??
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I saw this stuff in a shop the other day...

is it ok for a bike chain??
  dunno but i usually have a 25lt drum of chain i'll beyont in me garage so i shud try it in me Scotoiler.
spyball alarm/immob,
bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir,
forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"
NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel
CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.

engine changed july 20
07 on a dyno run it made
79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.


I loike tay and hang sangwiches !


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