Scottoiler

[chrislarkin]

<!--quoteo(post=120013:date=Mon 27th Apr 2009, 11:13 PM:name=Jankers)-->QUOTE(Jankers @ Mon 27th Apr 2009, 11:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Where do the 850 owners of Scotoiler place the (standard) reservoir?

Just wondered as mine is attached to the underside of the seat frame, the pipe then
follows the frame to the swinging arm then along the arm to the rear sprocket.

Makes filling a little awkward and impossible to fill completely but otherwise seems to work ok.

J.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Mine's here just tucked under the plastic. Tubes runs down the frame member and back along the swing arm. 2001 MkIIa.

[dicky1]

Just fitted a scottoiler touring on my 900 and found I have a similiar problem to that on my last bike(TDM850). Unless I have the oiler on minimum/off I have too much oil on the chain (and this is before the summer higher temperatures). I also seem to have the same problem as a previous post which is leakage around the black oil output connection.
As i already have multiple electrical connections to the battery I steered away from the pro-oiler but am now regretting it.
Any suggestions on how to improve matters appreciated.

[catsbum]

So it's not just me then? Since I met with Tony this week I have not looked under the seat to check
Sleeping dogs etc [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/hide.gif[/img]

[dicky1]

My unit is on the rear mudguard so I see a streak & drip hanging like a runny nose [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/doubtfull.gif[/img]

[dallasRUS]

Guys, any advice what to do with Scottoiler, it makes about 15-20 drops
per minute, instead of 1-2 drops as required. Can't make this lower
with adjustment knob, can adjust only from 15 to 20 as I said. Any ideas?

[TDMTAM]

<!--quoteo(post=131398:date=Sat 8th Aug 2009, 10:10 AM:name=dallasRUS)-->QUOTE(dallasRUS @ Sat 8th Aug 2009, 10:10 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Guys, any advice what to do with Scottoiler, it makes about 15-20 drops
per minute, instead of 1-2 drops as required. Can't make this lower
with adjustment knob, can adjust only from 15 to 20 as I said. Any ideas?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
What scottoil are you using the red or blue scottoil & what kind of temperature is it where you are. It could be the oils viscosity is to low for the climate where you live.
TAM

[dallasRUS]

Blue one, +24C today, seems wrong one according to manufacturer

<!--quoteo-->QUOTE<!--quotec-->Blue, traditional oil is designed for the UK climate i.e. ambient temperatures from 0 to 20ºC.
Red, High Temp oil is available for warmer climates i.e. 20 to 40ºC.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
but I wonder if such difference because of oil? Let it be twice maybe, but x10 here...
Unfortunately do not have Red now to try.

[jetcster]

<!--quoteo(post=131404:date=Sat 8th Aug 2009, 02:00 PM:name=dallasRUS)-->QUOTE(dallasRUS @ Sat 8th Aug 2009, 02:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Blue one, +24C today, seems wrong one according to manufacturer
but I wonder if such difference because of oil? Let it be twice maybe, but x10 here...
Unfortunately do not have Red now to try.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Необязательно лить именно скотойлеровское масло, можно использовать ATF, или трансмиссионку подходящей вязкости.
Соответственно, вязкость подобрать, чтобы лишнее масло не лилось.
Я лью ATF И забиваю на масляные следы на ограждении цепи.

Try other oils: transmission oils, ATF, with different viscosity rates.

[dallasRUS]

You're right, but I guess this is workaround.
The question is what's wrong and how to fix this if possible.

[Guest]

<!--quoteo(post=131515:date=Mon 10th Aug 2009, 05:50 AM:name=dallasRUS)-->QUOTE(dallasRUS @ Mon 10th Aug 2009, 05:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->You're right, but I guess this is workaround.
The question is what's wrong and how to fix this if possible.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Worst comes to worst, just add a mini valve in the line to adjust (restrict) the flow. Cheap, simple, Rube Goldberg ftw.

[jetcster]

<!--quoteo(post=131515:date=Mon 10th Aug 2009, 08:50 AM:name=dallasRUS)-->QUOTE(dallasRUS @ Mon 10th Aug 2009, 08:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->You're right, but I guess this is workaround.
The question is what's wrong and how to fix this if possible.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Where you've placed the scottoiler RMV ?

[dallasRUS]

<!--quoteo(post=131518:date=Mon 10th Aug 2009, 12:33 PM:name=JetC)-->QUOTE(JetC @ Mon 10th Aug 2009, 12:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Where you've placed the scottoiler RMV ?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Under left back side fairing, same mount like <b>TeDeum</b> picture posted above
on this page http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z6/chri...n/scotoiler.jpg

[jimmyf46]

i have my scottoiler fitted under the left hand fron fairing on my 900. it's great and easy to refill. It was well worth the money.

I will get a pic and post it showing location.

[johno68]

<!--quoteo(post=134626:date=Mon 14th Sep 2009, 05:49 PM:name=jimmyf46)-->QUOTE(jimmyf46 @ Mon 14th Sep 2009, 05:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->i have my scottoiler fitted under the left hand fron fairing on my 900. it's great and easy to refill. It was well worth the money.

I will get a pic and post it showing location.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Jimmy any chance you can post a piccies of where you fitted the Scottoiler on your bike. I've got one to fit and don't fancy it under the seat, so I'm looking at other options.


Ta,
John

[jimmyf46]

will do it tonight.

[jimmyf46]

ok not sure if this is right but these links are to photobucket pics of my scottoiler fitted to the bike.

Jimmy.




http://s36http://s365.photobucket.com/albu...pg&newest=1

[johno68]

Many thanks Jimmy, I think I'll copy that install.

Ta

John

[Guest]

I fitted my scottoiler RMV to the left hand luggage stay on my 900 which goes from the footrest hanger to the rear subframe diagonally.
The cable ties to the swingarm I didn't much like as it tended to slip about, so a quick bit of milling and drilling made this:



The bolts are M6 110 mm, Threaded top bar and two nyloc stainless nut to make sure its secure. Use 19mm square bar alloy to start. Top bar is 19mm x 5 alloy, brake fitting is M 10 x1, brass nozzle is M6 (actually a vacuum spigot form an old bike) and a bit of 4mm silicone vacuum pipe plus a bit of copper brake pipe.

A Scottoiler is well worth it as I have swapped it to each bike I have had, chains last about 25,000 or so. The only thing was the oblong rubber breather plug perished, I mentioned this to Scottoil at the BMF and they gave me a new one for nowt [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/clapping.gif[/img] Now that's service.

This post was last modified: 08-05-2010, 04:04 PM by leehenty.

[magneto]

Scottoiler service is excellent I've found too. Prev posts mention using WD40 - I have always found that this stuff dissolves rubber. Try some on your car screen rubber and then wipe with a cloth - it will be black. GT85 however, same price, doesn't. Plus it is superb for squirting on brake caliper pistons after cleaning with brake cleaner and toothbrush. It leaves a ptfe residue which makes for the best feeling calipers ever. And it smells great - I put a dab behind each ear on Friday nights...
Presently using genuine Stihl chainsaw oil in Scottoiler which seems to do the trick and at £12 for 5 litres great value. I've never had any probs with genuine Stihl stuff/chainsaws. Single nozzle seems fine, although the back sideplates need a squirt of chainwax just to keep from rusting. When I bought my TDM it had the telltale rythmic speed related clicking of a worn link. Not rivetted correctly when fitted so grease disappears and they wear prematurely. New link sorted it but I couldn't help but notice how small the pin diameter was. Cheap chain? Santa bought me a gen Yam C&S kit so after winter I will fit it.
Tyres are made from oil, so quite why folk have this aversion to getting a bit on them is a puzzle. Oily wheels don't corrode. And it would take a bigger dollop than a Scottoiler could dispense to fetch you off.
With petrol prices today I'm surprised no one has mentioned how much more efficient a chain is when well lubed. Or how much less efficient/heavy shaft drive is at any time.

[catsbum]

<!--quoteo(post=192195:date=Mon 24th Jan 2011, 09:49 PM:name=magneto)-->QUOTE(magneto @ Mon 24th Jan 2011, 09:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Scottoiler service is excellent I've found too. Prev posts mention using WD40 - I have always found that this stuff dissolves rubber. Try some on your car screen rubber and then wipe with a cloth - it will be black. GT85 however, same price, doesn't. Plus it is superb for squirting on brake caliper pistons after cleaning with brake cleaner and toothbrush. It leaves a ptfe residue which makes for the best feeling calipers ever. <!--coloro:#FF0000--><!--/coloro-->And it smells great - I put a dab behind each ear on Friday nights.<!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc-->..
Presently using genuine Stihl chainsaw oil in Scottoiler which seems to do the trick and at £12 for 5 litres great value. I've never had any probs with genuine Stihl stuff/chainsaws. Single nozzle seems fine, although the back sideplates need a squirt of chainwax just to keep from rusting. When I bought my TDM it had the telltale rythmic speed related clicking of a worn link. Not rivetted correctly when fitted so grease disappears and they wear prematurely. New link sorted it but I couldn't help but notice how small the pin diameter was. Cheap chain? Santa bought me a gen Yam C&S kit so after winter I will fit it.
Tyres are made from oil, so quite why folk have this aversion to getting a bit on them is a puzzle. Oily wheels don't corrode. And it would take a bigger dollop than a Scottoiler could dispense to fetch you off.
With petrol prices today I'm surprised no one has mentioned how much more efficient a chain is when well lubed. Or how much less efficient/heavy shaft drive is at any time.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Liked your post, and your gonna fit in well here....ya weirdo.