Studley Ramrod
Splitting The Crankcase
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Splitting The Crankcase
Original blog: Studley's Bloggerydoodaah

[b]Weather kinda delayed progress in splitting the crankcase but I finally managed to get the tool I needed for the job.The main challenge in splitting 'em is removing the alternator rotor. I needed summat to stop the rotor from turning and a puller that was strong enough to use on the rotor.Stopping the rotor from turning was a doddle, I used a block of timber and a suitable diameter rod/bar partly wrapped in amalgamating tape.[b]Placed the small end of the conrod through the hole in the wood and put the bar through the small end like so[Image: 5221535298_522d996a3b_b.jpg]This allowed me to remove the rotor bolt on me tod, another pair o hands would have been useful tho !The puller I opted for was a diy jobbie..... I got a 10cmx10cm square, 10mm thick plate with 3 8mm holes and an 18mm centre hole. I then had an 18mm nut welded over the centre hole.[b]The three 8mm bolts that screwed into the rotor were originally 65mm long which was too short. I did try using them but ended up pulling the weld on the nut as I had the plate on the wrong way around.[b]Another 18mm nut was welded in place and I got three 90mm length bolts. This time the plate was the correct way round with the nut below the plate.[Image: 5260641910_54004c7cbc_b.jpg]Using the plug Leehenty had made to go in the end of the crank, I just tightened up the puller until I couldn't turn it any further then applied some heat to the centre of the rotor.[b]After a few minutes off she popped Smile[Image: 5260641914_bdc0d0ab2e_b.jpg]After that it was relatively straightforward, apart from removing the balancer shafts, both of the torx screws wouldn't budge so I ended up drilling the heads off them.[b]Another 3 torx screws hold the plate for the drive shaft but these came out easily with a good Stanley T.30 torx bit.29 bolts to undo and wehoooo ! Exclamation [Image: 5264183474_0406849dc3_z.jpg]Next job......inspecting the gearbox Smile


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