<!--quoteo(post=91124:date=Wed 16th Jul 2008, 02:07 AM:name=Wayfarer)-->QUOTE(Wayfarer @ Wed 16th Jul 2008, 02:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->What caused you to want to replace the emulsion tubes on your mark 1? Was something er...inefficient.
Best
Wayfarer<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Generally poor fuel economy.
ok so Ive had mine since 94 it's a 92 model year. so my question is it has been running like crap!!! It starts and idles ok but at small throttle openings it coughs and sputters unless you really get into it more than half throttle it only seems to happen below 3500 rpm. it started small and has progressively gotten worse. I live for now in southern california and even having worked in the motorcycle industry on and off for 15 yrs I still only met 2 other tdm riders. One is no longer alive and the other I have lost touch with for about 8 yrs. I also need a rear shock soon as mine is leaking an nobody will rebuild it. Any tips would be apreciated.
Hi there,
I'd say it's likely to be worn emulsion tubes, if you've also had a corresponding degradation in economy then the signs are that they need replacing.
You may also have worn/sticking float valves.
It is a common problem on the early models, some have worn out after 5000 miles !
Hope this helps, I'm sure you'll find all the info you need on this site, and some !
<!--quoteo(post=94234:date=Fri 15th Aug 2008, 11:42 AM:name=malred71)-->QUOTE(malred71 @ Fri 15th Aug 2008, 11:42 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->ok so Ive had mine since 94 it's a 92 model year. so my question is it has been running like crap!!! It starts and idles ok but at small throttle openings it coughs and sputters unless you really get into it more than half throttle it only seems to happen below 3500 rpm. it started small and has progressively gotten worse. I live for now in southern california and even having worked in the motorcycle industry on and off for 15 yrs I still only met 2 other tdm riders. One is no longer alive and the other I have lost touch with for about 8 yrs. I also need a rear shock soon as mine is leaking an nobody will rebuild it. Any tips would be apreciated.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
It could be something as simple as resetting your pilot jet screws & sync the carbies..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tup.gif[/img]
Good luck .............Let us know how you get on
I've just installed an Ohlins rear....................................ABSOLUTELY BLOODY FANTASTIC [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yahoo.gif[/img]
(but can be a bit expensive though) [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blush.gif[/img]
<!--quoteo(post=94234:date=Thu 14th Aug 2008, 07:12 PM:name=malred71)-->QUOTE(malred71 @ Thu 14th Aug 2008, 07:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->ok so Ive had mine since 94 it's a 92 model year. so my question is it has been running like crap!!! It starts and idles ok but at small throttle openings it coughs and sputters unless you really get into it more than half throttle it only seems to happen below 3500 rpm. it started small and has progressively gotten worse. I live for now in southern california and even having worked in the motorcycle industry on and off for 15 yrs I still only met 2 other tdm riders. One is no longer alive and the other I have lost touch with for about 8 yrs. I also need a rear shock soon as mine is leaking an nobody will rebuild it. Any tips would be apreciated.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Odd. I just replaced the emulsion tubes on my TDM (92 California model) over the weekend, and now it is running exactly as you describe. The only way I can ride it now is with partial choke. I called Factory Pro, and they advised me to play with the mixture screws until it runs smoothly (?). I fear I may have gotten a piece of goo in one of the jets during the emulsion tube install [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img] It was running similarly a couple of months ago, and I fixed it by cleaning the pilot jets. They are an awful pain in the arse to clean though. I would suggest saving yourself the trouble and buying some new ones if you go that route. FYI, the pilot jets and emulsion tubes can both be replaced with the carbs still on the bike.
Check with these guys on your shock: http://www.le-suspension.com/ They rebuilt a shock on a Ninja I used to ride and didn't charge an arm and a leg.
Hello,
Just bought a 92 TDM850 and love the bike.
However, the engine sputters and surges between no throttle and 1/4 open throttle.
On the freeway, when it is cruising at 65 mph 4500 rpm, the engine sputters and surges.
Do you think the emulsion tube is the problem?
Let me know your thoughts and thanks for the help.
Just replace mine today, discover that the carb floats high are set at only 11mm! (without compressing the springs, just like factory pro says you should measure them), needles are set at the second from top position, I'm going to leave everything as is since the bike was running fine except for horrible fuel consumption (8,5L per 100km), don't have a vacuum gage so balancing carbs will have to wait [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]
Good and bad? news was to discover the throttle cable was ready to snap! so, will have to wait till I get one to see how the new emulsion tubes work.
Any tips on replacing the cables? I guess I'll have to grease them at the handlebar end... don't know how you take that apart [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]
<!--quoteo(post=97434:date=Tue 16th Sep 2008, 02:19 PM:name=mwarner)-->QUOTE(mwarner @ Tue 16th Sep 2008, 02:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Odd. I just replaced the emulsion tubes on my TDM (92 California model) over the weekend, and now it is running exactly as you describe. The only way I can ride it now is with partial choke. I called Factory Pro, and they advised me to play with the mixture screws until it runs smoothly (?). I fear I may have gotten a piece of goo in one of the jets during the emulsion tube install [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img] It was running similarly a couple of months ago, and I fixed it by cleaning the pilot jets. They are an awful pain in the arse to clean though. I would suggest saving yourself the trouble and buying some new ones if you go that route. FYI, the pilot jets and emulsion tubes can both be replaced with the carbs still on the bike.
Check with these guys on your shock: http://www.le-suspension.com/ They rebuilt a shock on a Ninja I used to ride and didn't charge an arm and a leg.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
My bike is doing the same thing. Did you fix your problem? What did you do?
My slide goes up and down like crazy when I open the throttle to 1/3 and then it smooths out over 1/3 throttle.
Is this normal?
<!--quoteo(post=137926:date=Tue 13th Oct 2009, 12:18 PM:name=hawkman)-->QUOTE(hawkman @ Tue 13th Oct 2009, 12:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->My bike is doing the same thing. Did you fix your problem? What did you do?
My slide goes up and down like crazy when I open the throttle to 1/3 and then it smooths out over 1/3 throttle.
Is this normal?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I'd say it's about normal, are both slides doing it the same ? Check inside the carb tops to make sure the little o ring is there as they can easily fall out if you take the tops off with the carbs still on the bike. Another fiddly bit worth checking is the diaphragm in the carb tops. If they're not positioned exactly right when you put the top back on, you don't get the airtight seal which will cause it to splutter.
Failing that, make sure you have the needle clip in the 3rd position.
Excellent description, thanks !!
Took me about one hour + tank removal/assembly, no problems whatsoever.
....ehhh...haven't started it yet [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
Think I'll wait 'til tomorrow, won't risk spoiling a perfect (but rainy) day.
If no followup posting, consider it a success.
I have the Factory Pro tubes on order and hope they solve my high fuel consumption. I have not read anything about replacement of the needles that operate with them: do these not also wear at contact with the tubes?
They do but no where near as much as the toobs. Also FP needles have a slightly diff profile to OEM so you might have some setup tweakifrying to do to get um running noice if you went for them. If you can find OEM needles for a reasonable price lettuce snow.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Aint not tried kedo for carb bits. Think someone tried toobs recently but not heard oubt about needles if they do em.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
dapleb, thanks for that. I will do tubes only first due to price of needles. Fowlers Bristol quoted £58 for two sets 3VD-1490J-00-00. Yamaha Spain want £120 for the same!
Fowlers Bristol quoted £58 for two sets 3VD-1490J-00-00. [/quote]
Ahh I'da thought it were more than that, still alorra lolly for 2 pins.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
How to replace the emulsion tubes on a Mk1
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