Being a absolute novice with electrical soldering and the black art.
This is how I fitted my DG8 I got from the Motorbike show last week.
Acumen do not have the TDM electrical wiring on their web site. So I posted the diagram from JBX
and Paul from acumen came up trumps with the following.
Acumen wire colours soldered to TDM 900 colours
Acumen Brown to Grey into ECU ( Tacho)
Acumen Orange to White / yelow into ECU (Speed)
Acumen Red to Red /white into ECU ( +ve)
Acumen Black to Black / white into ECU (-ve )
Acumen Green to light green into Dash board cluster ( neutral light)
ECU is on LHS under side panel, you have to unwrap the bundle to get to the wires.
The dash board cluster is the bundel above that goes off to the Dash board.
Soldering was fiddley, especialy since it was my first go at soldering ever !!!
Once you have soldered the correct wire to each other, switch the engine on to see if it works
I fitted it here on the dash as there was no need to drill to fit it.
Once it's in, make sure everything is wrapped up again, off you go.....
Easier than I thought.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img]
Cheers, Ivan
I'm a TDM SNOB !!!!    "Adventure before Dementia" Â
Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
Â
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Nice work for a first attempt. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img]
My tip when making these kind of joints: After taping up the soldered connection, gently run the side of the soldering iron tip over the end of the tape. This seals it and stops it from peeling away in the cold weather. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img]
I fitted a DG8 to my 2007 <b>ABS </b>9'er yesterday and thought I'd pass some additional info on for others to use.
When you look behind the left side fairing panel you'll see more electrical gubbins than those pictured above but the connection table below still mostly holds true. The only difference being the neutral light wire which is no longer light green but is now sky blue (a very light blue).
Acumen wire colours soldered to TDM 900 colours
Acumen Brown to Grey into ECU ( Tacho)
Acumen Orange to White / yelow into ECU (Speed)
Acumen Red to Red /white into ECU ( +ve)
Acumen Black to Black / white into ECU (-ve )
Acumen Green to <b>SKY BLUE</b> into Dash board cluster ( neutral light) see pic
### Any chance of moving this topic into the knowledge base as I found it to be a very useful script? ###
Gone but not forgotten: 2007 TDM900ABS Competition White, datatagged, fenda extenda, tomtom rider 1, Yamaha main stand, Yamaha heated grips, HID headlights, Yamaha top box & city side cases, MRA Vario screen, CLS200 automatic chain oiler, Yamaha belly pan, DL650 handguards, Gi-Pro X gear indicator, SW-Motech Mirror Extensions, LED side light, Stebel Nautilus AIR HORN!!!!!
<!--quoteo(post=74766:date=Sun 16th Mar 2008, 06:31 PM:name=Baron)-->QUOTE(Baron @ Sun 16th Mar 2008, 06:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->### Any chance of moving this topic into the knowledge base as I found it to be a very useful script? ###<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Agreed, (If any Mods or Admins do not agree just move it back here <i>All About TDM</i>). To KB pursuant to 'fact checking'.
Fitted mine this evening, just a bit of info for others, mine is a 2002 900 and there are two grey wires going to ECU, if you connect to wrong one (like i did) [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wub.gif[/img] unit will not learn gears, if this happens no harm done just swop to the other one
<!--quoteo(post=63977:date=Sun 9th Dec 2007, 01:52 PM:name=Sparky)-->QUOTE(Sparky @ Sun 9th Dec 2007, 01:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Nice work for a first attempt. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img]
My tip when making these kind of joints: After taping up the soldered connection, gently run the side of the soldering iron tip over the end of the tape. This seals it and stops it from peeling away in the cold weather. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Better still is to use heat shrink tubing; slide it over the cable, make solder or crimp joint, slide tubing over joint and shrink using a heat gun or hair dryer. You can buy this in different sizes from most electrical wholesalers.
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wifgeni.gif[/img] and if you want a waterproofed connection you can get heat shrink tubing with heat activated glue as well. Maplin Link
TS50ER, Suzuki GT125, Cagiva 125, Suzuki GT250 20 year gap. Honda CBF600. Discovered the joy of TDM, 1974 GT250 has joined the stable
Vario touring screen, Stainless Steel Rad Guard, Fender Extender (it came off), Givi V46 Topbox (inc brake light), SW-Motech Engine Bars, Wingrack, LED Tail Light
Still in the shed:- BMW Hand Guards, Heated Grips, Aux Lamps.
<!--quoteo(post=76576:date=Sun 30th Mar 2008, 12:02 PM:name=Landy)-->QUOTE(Landy @ Sun 30th Mar 2008, 12:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wifgeni.gif[/img] and if you want a waterproofed connection you can get heat shrink tubing with heat activated glue as well. Maplin Link<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Good point, forgot to mention that one and I was only using this 3 days ago whilst wiring some water treatment units...must be old age creeping in [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/help.gif[/img]
<!--quoteo(post=76574:date=Sun 30th Mar 2008, 11:46 AM:name=Saga Lout)-->QUOTE(Saga Lout @ Sun 30th Mar 2008, 11:46 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Better still is to use heat shrink tubing; slide it over the cable, make solder or crimp joint, slide tubing over joint and shrink using a heat gun or hair dryer. You can buy this in different sizes from most electrical wholesalers.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
That's the best thing to use when joining ends, but when piggybacking onto existing wiring (as in this topic), you can't fit heatshrink unless you cut the wire you intend to join onto. I prefer not to do that. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img]
Surely there's a connector housing where each pin can be removed, soldered to & then re-inserted ? Easy & neat. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img]
Even easier. Use posi-locks. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
<b><!--sizeo:4--><!--/sizeo--><!--fonto:Comic Sans MS--><!--/fonto-->cheers, Shane from Tassie<!--fontc-->
<!--/fontc--><!--sizec--><!--/sizec--></b>
<!--sizeo:2--><!--/sizeo-->Airbox Mod ( JBX ), Krauser K-wing mount & Top Box, <b>TDM Shield a.k.a TigerScreen Mk 2</b>, HyperPro progressive rate fork springs, BeoWulf - Warrior exhausts,
Stebel Compact Nautilus Air-Horn with Eastern Beaver relay kit, Eastern Beaver PC-8 switched fusebox, Powerlet BMW style power socket
plus controller & heated gloves for the missus. Oxford v7 Heated Grips, V-Strom 650 HandGuards, Fenda extenda.<!--sizec--><!--/sizec-->
<!--quoteo(post=187857:date=Wed 15th Dec 2010, 03:20 PM:name=maximuspetrolhead)-->QUOTE(maximuspetrolhead @ Wed 15th Dec 2010, 03:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->What do you need a gear position indicator for anyway?
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I would not be without one now.
Its handy going into corners in the right gear, makes the riding a lot smoother and I used to forget to go into 6th gear on the motorway.
Ride for miles in 5th.
Personal preferance realy . BM fookin W's have them, why not my TDM.
I'm a TDM SNOB !!!!    "Adventure before Dementia" Â
Kawasaki GT550, XJ900 Diversion, 2002 TDM 900 , 2008 TDM 900a, 2010 TDM 900a.
Â
Â
<!--quoteo(post=187842:date=Wed 15th Dec 2010, 11:35 AM:name=SpeedDevil)-->QUOTE(SpeedDevil @ Wed 15th Dec 2010, 11:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I'm sorry if I sound a bit stupid, but from what I see the only connections are +ve, -ve, tachometer, speed and neutral.
How does the gear indicator know what gear you are in?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
It compares the speed with the revs (ie 80 mph @ 4000 revs = 6th gear) - if I remember correctly you have to go through a learning process to set it up.
I tried one on a Bandit I used to have but couldn't get a reliable reading - I used to spend my time working out myself what gear I was in then checking the unit. Decided that wasn't the idea and removed it.
Farkles - Laser Duo Techs,MTC Stainless Exhausts, Laser Duo Techs, Power Commander and custom map, Tenere 1200 Handguards, Yamaha Heated Grips, MRA Vario screen, SW Motech Alurack, Givi and Hepco and Becker top boxes, Givi Engine bars, Garmin Zumo XT
<!--quoteo(post=187867:date=Thu 16th Dec 2010, 02:40 AM:name=hallrob1)-->QUOTE(hallrob1 @ Thu 16th Dec 2010, 02:40 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->It compares the speed with the revs (ie 80 mph @ 4000 revs = 6th gear) - if I remember correctly you have to go through a learning process to set it up.
I tried one on a Bandit I used to have but couldn't get a reliable reading - I used to spend my time working out myself what gear I was in then checking the unit. Decided that wasn't the idea and removed it.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I'm from the side of the fence that likes a gear indicator. I put one on my Honda Blackbird because it was so smooth and free revving in the tight stuff you didn't know whether you were in 2nd or 4th, and like someone else said, you would ride for miles in 5th and forget to change up.
I had no problems calibrating it. The only time it gets confused is if you pop the clutch and coast up to a set of lights; zero revs and 40km/h it can't work out.
I have taken it off the Blackbird as it's for sale, and will keep it for my planned TDM.
Better get a lawyer son, better get a REAL good one..........
I just wish someone would make a 'You are now in top' indicator. Some Yamaha's (eg 900 Divvies) have a gearshift which gives free travel when in 1st or top - therefore you can tell with your foot instantly whether another gear is still available without shutting the throttle or pulling the clutch. Admittedly, I reckon if I only ever rode the same bike it would be unnecessary, but I don't. Gear indicators seem to suffer from lag, but if the parameter was simply rpm in relation to roadspeed surely that can't be too complex to find top gears range and light an led?
<!--quoteo(post=194023:date=Mon 7th Feb 2011, 09:17 PM:name=magneto)-->QUOTE(magneto @ Mon 7th Feb 2011, 09:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I just wish someone would make a 'You are now in top' indicator. Some Yamaha's (eg 900 Divvies) have a gearshift which gives free travel when in 1st or top - therefore you can tell with your foot instantly whether another gear is still available without shutting the throttle or pulling the clutch. Admittedly, I reckon if I only ever rode the same bike it would be unnecessary, but I don't. Gear indicators seem to suffer from lag, but if the parameter was simply rpm in relation to roadspeed surely that can't be too complex to find top gears range and light an led?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I did the JBX gear indicator mod but for 6th gear only. Just one small green LED on the dash is all i need.