My Guzzi has independent forks for compression and rebound. Works just fine and handles very well.Â
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The biggest difference to the forks on my 900 was fitting the emulators. Ok, itâs a faff to adjust both compression and rebound now, having to remove the springs to make an adjustment, but once set up correctly, the difference is night and day. Having the ability to adjust high speed compression and set the low speed independently means I can have a flush ride thatâs fully controlled. The issue with just using heavier oil is that is affects the adjustment range on the rebound too. Necessary without emulators and with heavier springs fitted though.
Quote:My Guzzi has independent forks for compression and rebound. Works just fine and handles very well.Â
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The biggest difference to the forks on my 900 was fitting the emulators. Ok, itâs a faff to adjust both compression and rebound now, having to remove the springs to make an adjustment, but once set up correctly, the difference is night and day. Having the ability to adjust high speed compression and set the low speed independently means I can have a flush ride thatâs fully controlled. The issue with just using heavier oil is that is affects the adjustment range on the rebound too. Necessary without emulators and with heavier springs fitted though.
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I have been tempted by emulators. The suspension guy recommended Andriani cartridges in fact !
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I find that just using heavy weight on one leg improves the compression damping, but I can set it's rebound to the minimum setting and get away without it being too effective. The adjuster on the other leg works as normal
I have been tempted by emulators. The suspension guy recommended Andriani cartridges in fact !
Racetech emulators took the front suspension to another level on my 9er (although noticeably less capable than my Mk1 with gold valves - the best forks I've experienced so far)
30W feels quite heavy on slow bumpy streets, but on high speed rollers it smooths everything out.
25W might be worth a try.
Having said that, and knowing that the viscosity of one manufacturers 10W is like another manufacturers 15W, there's going to be an element of playing around involved
The new steering head bearing arrived, so I swapped over the original lower yoke/clamp, for the later model version and went for a ride.
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The crank is obvious when you compare them side by side
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The lowest clamping point on the fork leg is moved down by 30mm
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The clamping boss on the later model is 40mm wide, while on the early version it's only 35mm
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It's easy to say that Yamaha must have thought this was a worthwhile mod to make, because it uses more metal and needed new dies to be made, but I wasn't sure if I would feel a difference
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On my favourite fast sweepers of the A70 I believe I can feel a more settled stance, especially when riding more up on the edge of the tyre than on the centre. It also feels less disturbed by undulations and hitting catseyes.
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I don't know if I would suggest changing it as a matter of course, but I've only had 30 minutes of testing so far, but if you had a reason to change the 900 lower yoke I think the newer version is the right one to go for.
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And a special note about the Zyliss bench vice. I bought this just because of it's wide opening, but it's a lightweight alloy, so I didn't think it was going to be strong. But, it's Swiss made, and if all you have room for is a temporary vice, it's probably worth a look !
At work we get lots of sheared studs out by drilling then placing an unplated nut over and tig welding on, as the weld cools the thread contracts and loses its bite on the aluminium, admittedly we can get better access at better angles.
Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.
Did some black-out detailing with Polytrol and fitted new 38x46x38mm graphite sleeve gaskets to my Remus link pipes (from an XJR1300) and torqued the clamps hard so they're no longer blowing. Some fjord riding scheduled for this p.m.
Scored a Top Sellerie saddle with gel for a princely £40 from a car(!) breaker, along with a Hyperpro 460 for £200. All looking pretty great if dusty. Treating myself to some ramen in celebration.
Started to investigate the feasibility of making an engine braking control device, by (hopefully) defeating the fuel cut on overrun which is coded into the ECU
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I want to make it a universal fit device, not just for TDM's. Hopefully any bike with low side switched fuel injectors, and, 3 wire stator/generators can be catered for.
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Step 1 has been to create a reliable digital RPM signal from one of the phases of the stator.. Not as easy as I thought it would be but I've got it to work today.
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The idea is to make it easy to install, and negate all the difficulty created by different types of crank position and cam position sensors available on different bikes
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The next hard bit is going to be to make it self learning. What it should be able to do is monitor the injection system and capture the injector opening times at each RPM at minimum load, and then when decelerating generate replacement injection signals, hopefully with a 3 stage control, of full engine braking (as standard), 'some' engine braking, and 'minimum' engine braking. The minimum setting ought to emulate a carburetted bike, and eliminate choppiness at small throttle openings.
Quote:Started to investigate the feasibility of making an engine braking control device, by (hopefully) defeating the fuel cut on overrun which is coded into the ECU
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I want to make it a universal fit device, not just for TDM's. Hopefully any bike with low side switched fuel injectors, and, 3 wire stator/generators can be catered for.
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Step 1 has been to create a reliable digital RPM signal from one of the phases of the stator.. Not as easy as I thought it would be but I've got it to work today.
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The idea is to make it easy to install, and negate all the difficulty created by different types of crank position and cam position sensors available on different bikes
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The next hard bit is going to be to make it self learning. What it should be able to do is monitor the injection system and capture the injector opening times at each RPM at minimum load, and then when decelerating generate replacement injection signals, hopefully with a 3 stage control, of full engine braking (as standard), 'some' engine braking, and 'minimum' engine braking. The minimum setting ought to emulate a carburetted bike, and eliminate choppiness at small throttle openings.
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Watch this space !
Clever stuff, maybe a bit of exhaust crackle off throttle too
Me too. in France. Got it's very first Controle Technique. Nothing to report apart from the not unexpected chain slack comment. Only a passing comment, and it's for 5 years not the normal 3years because it's registered as a "Vehicule de Collection".
