Had some shiny new Battlax T32s fitted by the irrepressible Trevini. Damp roads on the way home, but initial indications suggest they'll help my confidence no end.
Bikes wot I have had and dun't have any more: 1983 Honda CB125TDC, 1976 Kawasaki S1C (early KH250 stroker triple), 1986 Honda VF500F2, 1992 Kawasaki KLE500.
This is another good point about an early TDM 850, there are very few electronics. Recently, I'd started to notice a slight hesitance for the starter motor to engage when I pressed the starter switch.Â
So, better to attend to this while it's at home in the workshop. Stripping out the starter/cut-out switch was easy, two screws, no more. And the contacts inside were easy to dismantle and clean the surfaces.
No solid state sealed components to be seen !Â
A pleasure to work on !
And I fitted a set of Gel-filled Pro Grips while I was at it.
 yea come on Lee, thought you were proper heducated.
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead  Gone to Heaven orry:
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1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   Sorted and on the Road Mick   it's the bike that Jack built  Gone to Heaven Â
<span><span>phrasal verb with rein </span>verb </span>
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<span><span>uk </span></span>
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<span><span>/<span>reɪn/</span></span> <span>us </span></span>
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<span><span>/<span>reɪn/</span></span></span></div>
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<span><span>(<span>HORSE) </span></span></span>
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<div><a class="" title="Add this meaning to a word list"> <span>Add to word list </a> </span>
<div>to make a <a class="" href="https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/horse" title="horse">horse</a> go more <a class="" href="https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/slow" title="slowly">slowly</a> or <a class="" href="https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/stop" title="stop">stop</a> by <a class="" href="https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/pull" title="pulling">pulling</a> on <a class="" href="https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/its" title="its">its</a> <a class="" href="https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/rein" title="reins">reins</a>
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 Merriam Webster
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SMART Vocabulary: related words and phrasesÂ
When something is out of controlâbe it a government's spending or your toddler's tantrumâyou might feel the need to talk about reining that out-of-control thing inâor would that be reigning it in?
The quick answer is this: the phrase you want is rein in. It's an equestrian allusionâif you rein in a horse, you pull the reins of the horseâthe straps fastened to the bit of a bridle and used by a rider or driver to guide and control the horseâtight so that you control where the horse goes and how fast.
Today I fitted a USB charging lead and extracted a deceased, desiccated robin from between the engine and radiator. No idea how long itâd been there!Â
Quote:This different fluids on each fork, whats the theory behind that ?
I have never felt there was enough rebound damping. I have the early-model years stronger springs, and longer spacer. Generally it's a firmer ride than later bikes.
So on rebound, I suspect, the stronger springs are overcoming the limitations of rebound control.
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But I also think this is linked to my body weight too, after heavy braking the forks compress greatly, after releasing the brakes the 'bounce' back up seemed to be too unsettling, like it was a bit uncontrolled.
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So, it's about a year or more since I first tried it on my old 900. I put overweight oil in one fork leg and it helped a great deal, but because it was only in one leg the overall ride still felt a bit plush, not like if I had put 30W in both legs.
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One of the damping functions of the fork relies on the size of the damper holes, on the damper rod, at the bottom of the fork leg. It can only be adjusted by playing with oil viscosity. If memory serves, damper rod holes control compression. So adding thicker oil resists the front end dive more by increasing compression damping
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I have to remember which leg has which oil, because the top fork adjustment screw on the 'heavy' leg has a bigger effect. Overall, the adjustment range feels more useful to me, I can set it 'too much' and back it off, and retain some fine adjustment on the 'softer'Â leg.
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When I took my Ohlins shock to be rebuilt, I asked the expert there about it. He didn't laugh and said 'it probably works'.
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I used to have reservations about inequalities in fork leg functions between both sides, but then I rode a KTM with the front end compression-only adjustment on one fork leg, and rebound-only adjustment on the other. In thiat case, they're both almost always imbalanced in terms of the forces being applied. Under braking the compression leg is taking more load.
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The TDM900 has a nice thick front wheel centre axle, strongly clamped either side bridging both fork legs and keeping them both at the same distance from the yoke pretty well. After riding like that for a year or so I feel there's been no negative impact.