Started it up to analyse the source of the faint smoke which comes now and then. Decided a strip down is due.
Took one look at the corroded cylinder head exhaust manifold studs/nuts and think due to the 115,000 miles of corossion it might be time to trade this in, or just get another engine !
Rode it for the first time in what seems like ages. Had to nip to Norwich, it had more fuel in the tank than the Dominator, and it was the last day of the road tax.
I've SORN it for a couple of months to make better use of it in the warmer weather.
Booked MOT for Monday, so bound to be wettest day since records began....
Lock onto my co-ordinates and beam me up !!
04 900 - 92 mk 1 - r 1150 rs - Z550 A1 - 2x bonnies - plastic slug -XL185 - ...not in that order !! (and one or two i don't want / dare to own up to !!)
I spent yesterday wrastling with the seized pistoons in the rear brake. The last couple of rides have been sans rear stoppage.
On investigation the brake fluid looked like cold, milky, tea and after much wriggling, twiddling and inventive language to remove the caliper I found the pistons to be fossilised in position.
The rear brake pad pins are held by R clips, don't be a Harvey and end up with a D clip and an R clip..
Initially I was going to strip it down, clean the pistoons and rebuild it but chickened out knowing I would knacker the seals. I will do it properly when I have new ones.
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Anyhoo, after spraying it with stuff which claims to free up anything for 6 hours the pistons did indeed start to move, out, happy days. Getting them back in so I could push them out again required mensa level thinking, two wee clamps with the top of the foot ground off and a wee steel plate so I didn't squeeze the pistons wonky as I gorilla'd them back in. Repeat until bored. Clean re-assemble, dis-assemble to check the pads were in the right way, arrows pointing in rotation, re-assemble, flush through with new brake fluid and ta da, I can do skiddies again. That's probably due to all the spray that hit the rear tyre, though.
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Dunno what I'm going to do about all the gouges on the caliper face where the wee pins in the clamp cups attacked it. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, so is heavy duty inner tube rubber glued to clamp cups to stop outbreaks of caliper gouging.
TDM 850 Loud and unusual. CRM 250r Woo hoo! DT 230 Lanza Fiddled with.... Bloody hell, is that legal? GG Randonee AKA "I didn't think that was possible".
Decided to take the 900 out, as the MOT/tax/insurance is due in a few weeks.
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Had a great run down to Peebles, lunch at Greggs and a run back in time to see the rugby at home
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The previous smoke from the right side exhaust seems much reduced on the run, even when idling, so on the way home I thought I should check the oil level on the stand when I get home.
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I left it idling on the stand, and turned off the engine, dipped the oil immediately and it was about 40mm up the dipstick *above* the high level mark. After 5 minutes it was still the same. Has my smoke been due simply to a previous overfilling ?
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That would be nice, if that's all it is because I was dreading getting the exhaust studs out to do any engine work, after 113,000 miles
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While letting it idle on the stand, suddenly watered started to dribble out of the bottom, around the water pump, so I guess the seal has given up the ghost.
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So what issues surround pulling the water pump out ? I've read here there's a little washer or shim within the engine that can fall inside ?
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If I fix this leak and stop the smoke by draining oil I think the bike will manage an Ireland trip later in the year
Water Pump Mechanical Seal Kit For Yamaha Replaces 11H-12438-10-00 11H-12438-00   <a class="" href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/marksport2015?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l2559">marksport2015</a>   This is available on E bay. and does fit. The washer you refer to often sticks to the nylon drive so you get the chance to block it from falling into the sump, i missed my chance :hide:  Best Mark.
Quote:Water Pump Mechanical Seal Kit For Yamaha Replaces 11H-12438-10-00 11H-12438-00   marksport2015   This is available on E bay. and does fit. The washer you refer to often sticks to the nylon drive so you get the chance to block it from falling into the sump, i missed my chance :hide:  Best Mark.
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Cheers Mark
So I should have a piece of card or plastic ready, to put in the hole that the pump came out of to go under the gear, or isn't it needed ?
I think a bit of cloth would be my choice. And am not sure leaning it over is going to be helpful. Also in my case i did not change the ceramic washer. Was bothered i might break it.  Best mark.
Quote:I think a bit of cloth would be my choice. And am not sure leaning it over is going to be helpful. Also in my case i did not change the ceramic washer. Was bothered i might break it.  Best mark.
In my experience of replacing the ceramic seal, a push tool to press only the metal rim of the ceramic seal is essential. I used a rod in my drill press to get it in square, the force needed is not high.
you may need this to <a class="" href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224115100814">OIL SEAL - Metric R23/TC Lip Arrangement Rotary Shaft Seal - 12x21x4mm</a> Mark.
Quote:In my experience of replacing the ceramic seal, a push tool to press only the metal rim of the ceramic seal is essential. I used a rod in my drill press to get it in square, the force needed is not high.
Sounds like fun and games !
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It arrives Monday, I'll take the old one off over the weekend and work out a plan
