Ejk - Electronic Jet Kit (Alternative To Power Commander)

[fruitcake]

So this is the link to it - EFI Controllers - Electronic Jet Kit - Motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, Sportbikes, Snowmobiles, Watercraft, Dirt Bikes

 

It's US based, but various places across Europe etc sell it - I bought from a Dutch company and after conversion was around £180 (roughly) + any potential import costs.

 

So, some may have read in the booster plug thread, I was having trouble with the TDM running very lean after putting a pair of Black Widows on.

 

I have an AFR gauge so can monitor the ratio in real time which really helps sort out issues, but essentially the booster plug made very little difference and I wouldn't really recommend unless if you only need a tiny tweak in fueling (not worth the cost IMO but others have had good success).

 

I really wanted a power commander, but buying then new is pretty expensive and second hand is very hard to find now that these bikes are getting older, but spotted this EJK which seems to do a similar thing.

 

So this connects into the injector connector (the left hand side one) and detects the injector pulse from the ECU, then either extends or shortens the pulse according to the pre-set values.  This is pretty much the same thing the PC does.

 

So the main difference with the PC is the way you 'programme' the fueling.  This has everything built into the box and is controlled by a menu and then a + or - button.

 

It's called a 'jet kit' as it changes the same area's that carbs would - initial idling and low throttle cruising on idle jets, needle heights for acceleration, and main jets for WOT (sort of).

 

You use the menu button to scroll through the parameters and then + or - to control the level of change.  You can change the fueling at each area, and also the rev range that each area of effect covers.

 

For such a basic controller, it's actually not bad once you get the hang.

 

So does it work - yes, and I'm really pleased with the results.

 

Without the controller on it was idling ok at around 13 but jumping over 16 at 3000rpm and only coming back down above 5000.  With this module it's idling around 12, and doesn't go above 13 when revved through the range  :badgerrock: 

 

I also tweaked the idle setting and the rev's were audibly changing and I could see the AFR changing, so it's definitely changing the fueling on the fly as it states it does.

 

I haven't ridden it yet as I need to finish a few things and get it MOTed, but these figures are looking very promising and inspires a bit more confidence that my valves aren't getting fried with lean running. I'm hoping it'll also smooth out the ride as those leaner levels (must have been on the lean side even with OEM cans) wouldn't give a great ride.

 

So outside of remapping, if you wanted a comprehensive, detailed fuel mapping software where you can tweak in detail with help of a dyno etc, then a power commander would be the way to go, but for a fairly easy, less detailed fueling change I really think this is not a bad option.  It obviously helps to have the AFR gauge to see what the ratio's are, but it comes setup out of the box for a general tune of TDM with aftermarket exhausts and airbox update, so most likely would be fine to just install and forget about it.

 

I'll update once I get the chance to ride it and see how it's affected the characteristics.

[Boosh]

That's a great review! 

 

What is your AFR gauge?  How on Earth did you get one, arent they really expensive?

[fruitcake]

What is your AFR gauge?  How on Earth did you get one, arent they really expensive?

 

I bought one of these many years ago:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AEM-30-0300-Wid...0184TSI84/

 

It was probably around ten years ago I got it and it was a fair bit cheaper at around £110.  I had a kit car that I put ZX6R carbs on, so needed something I could truly monitor the fueling with, and along with some bike tuning I was doing thought it would be a useful investment.  I've used on loads of bikes, even just to check normal running is ok.  Worth the investment if you play around with these things now and again.

 

For carb'ed bikes or things like this with PCs etc it's nice to be able to see what's happening in real time, and even be able to use on the road under load.  I use a resistor in the OEM lambda sensor connector to stop issues with the closed loop and just rely on the ECU map being adjusted by the box now.

 

This is a cheaper brand, but I've never used and with no reviews it would be a punt to see if it was any good.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jikoiuty-30-411...B0BLRYBBS5

 

You can also get narrow band sensors very cheap:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PIOUSUNT-Digita...0B9GX6DYQ/

 

I can't vouch for these though, and they really only show if you're rich or lean, which is probably ok just for getting into the right ballpark.

 

If you're only going to set one of these up a single time, it probably wouldn't cost that much to drop by a tuning shop and get them to tweak it on a dyno or simply with their own gas monitor though. Failing that the old time consuming plug check can always be an option, but as I say it'll probably be ok out of the box.

[jpe70]

Top!  :tup:

[curlylegend]

 

I bought one of these many years ago:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AEM-30-0300-Wid...0184TSI84/

 

It was probably around ten years ago I got it and it was a fair bit cheaper at around £110.  I had a kit car that I put ZX6R carbs on, so needed something I could truly monitor the fueling with, and along with some bike tuning I was doing thought it would be a useful investment.  I've used on loads of bikes, even just to check normal running is ok.  Worth the investment if you play around with these things now and again.

 

For carb'ed bikes or things like this with PCs etc it's nice to be able to see what's happening in real time, and even be able to use on the road under load.  I use a resistor in the OEM lambda sensor connector to stop issues with the closed loop and just rely on the ECU map being adjusted by the box now.

 

This is a cheaper brand, but I've never used and with no reviews it would be a punt to see if it was any good.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jikoiuty-30-411...B0BLRYBBS5

 

You can also get narrow band sensors very cheap:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PIOUSUNT-Digita...0B9GX6DYQ/

 

I can't vouch for these though, and they really only show if you're rich or lean, which is probably ok just for getting into the right ballpark.

 

If you're only going to set one of these up a single time, it probably wouldn't cost that much to drop by a tuning shop and get them to tweak it on a dyno or simply with their own gas monitor though. Failing that the old time consuming plug check can always be an option, but as I say it'll probably be ok out of the box.

 

 

 

This is intriguing. Has anyone used anything like this to set up Carbs on a TDM 850 ?  I might actually go for this. All I need now is someone to weld the Sensor boss into place on my downtube.

[fruitcake]

 

This is intriguing. Has anyone used anything like this to set up Carbs on a TDM 850 ?  I might actually go for this. All I need now is someone to weld the Sensor boss into place on my downtube.

 

Not a TDM, but I did set up my ZRX1100 carbs using it.

 

The jets from the previous owner didn't suit the exhaust or K&N pod filters they'd put on.

 

I tuned the jets perfectly using the AFR gauge - they really are good if you don't mind the cost outlay.

 

Yeah the boss is a bit of a pain if you don't have welding capabilities - I have a mig so it was easy enough to do, but I have previously braised a boss on in when I had no choice (and just to see if it would work) - it's not ideal but as it' s usually in the area before the link pipe, it's not super hot and a braised joint is fine if you're at a push.

[Boosh]

Impressively thorough! 

 

What a great tool (or three).

 

I wonder if a can find a mate to go halves!

[curlylegend]

Watch this space, but don't hold your breath !

[fixitsan]

Does anyone know, if there's a motorcycle which has electronic fuel injection, but no battery ?

 

I'm really curious

 

From the insructions...

"
<b>If your vehicle has a battery then attach the controller BLACK wire to the negative terminal of the battery. The ring terminal can easily be cut to allow fitment around a larger terminal post or bolt.</b>


For vehicles without a battery then an alternative grounding location must be determined. The grounding location must be metal. Any location with a bolt into the metal frame is a good location."

[steve27bha]

Did old (between wars) bikes have magneto ignition?

 

Dunno if they still had a battery for lights etc..

 

Mind you, unlikely they had fuel injection, eh?

 

Ahhh - IIRC light aircraft use magneto ignition.

 

Mr Google?

[Snowbird]

Light aircraft indeed use mags and if fuel injection the majority are purely mechanical systems, you wouldn't want it on a bike as very crude.

I do aircraft mags at work.

[fruitcake]

Does anyone know, if there's a motorcycle which has electronic fuel injection, but no battery ?

 

I'm really curious

 

From the insructions...

"
<b>If your vehicle has a battery then attach the controller BLACK wire to the negative terminal of the battery. The ring terminal can easily be cut to allow fitment around a larger terminal post or bolt.</b>


For vehicles without a battery then an alternative grounding location must be determined. The grounding location must be metal. Any location with a bolt into the metal frame is a good location."

 

It does seem a strange thing to put - never noticed that.

 

I wonder if it's possible to go without a battery in racing/track days to save weight?  Can't think why on a modern FI bike otherwise.

[fixitsan]

 

It does seem a strange thing to put - never noticed that.

 

I wonder if it's possible to go without a battery in racing/track days to save weight?  Can't think why on a modern FI bike otherwise.

 

I never thought of that, you're probably right. Start the bike from a trackside battery and run on the alternator :good:

[Johnners]

Britten V1000 is a good example. Would be started by a motorised wheel pressing against the rear tyre while on paddock stand.

[Snowbird]

You'd probably need a capacitor absorb and smooth the charge output, running without a battery tends to kill regulators.

[fixitsan]

You'd probably need a capacitor absorb and smooth the charge output, running without a battery tends to kill regulators.

Probably right....

[fruitcake]

Having got my MOT (passed  ) at the weekend I've had a chance to see what the EJK box has done to the actual performance of the bike now and give an update.

 

Overall, I'm really pleased and feel it was worth it (for me).

 

My particular bike seemed the most jerky I've had (this is my third niner) - not sure why or if they changed fueling etc (it's a 2007 model) but the on/off throttle is pretty bad.

 

So, while it's still got a little of the on/off character, which is impossible to remove without a remap as it's due to the injectors cutting out on deceleration, the overall fueling is definitely improved and it's more like the previous TDMs I've had, much smoother and pulls great across the rev range.

 

I wouldn't say it's added much power, certainly not enough to make the "bum dyno" notice, but the fueling is much nicer, and I know it's not running lean anymore.  I think the jerkiness probably was from being too lean in that case, so I'd probably say if your bike is running fine and you've no concerns, just enjoy it, but if you're having issues or worried it's lean after changing silencers etc, then this is a nice easy option over the more expensive power commander.

[fixitsan]

Having got my MOT (passed  ) at the weekend I've had a chance to see what the EJK box has done to the actual performance of the bike now and give an update.

 

Overall, I'm really pleased and feel it was worth it (for me).

 

My particular bike seemed the most jerky I've had (this is my third niner) - not sure why or if they changed fueling etc (it's a 2007 model) but the on/off throttle is pretty bad.

 

So, while it's still got a little of the on/off character, which is impossible to remove without a remap as it's due to the injectors cutting out on deceleration, the overall fueling is definitely improved and it's more like the previous TDMs I've had, much smoother and pulls great across the rev range.

 

I wouldn't say it's added much power, certainly not enough to make the "bum dyno" notice, but the fueling is much nicer, and I know it's not running lean anymore.  I think the jerkiness probably was from being too lean in that case, so I'd probably say if your bike is running fine and you've no concerns, just enjoy it, but if you're having issues or worried it's lean after changing silencers etc, then this is a nice easy option over the more expensive power commander.

 

 

Good info :good:

 

The on-off throttle is noticeable on my 2nd niner, probably due to fuel cutoff, like you say. I'm still thinking up a way to get around that by replacing the missing pulses to the injector

 

It came with a PC3 fitted, and I see it has throttle position maps, which the EJK doesn't have. I'm going to download software today to make sure it's been zeroed to the throttle sensor on the bike because sometimes it doesn't seem keen to associate a rapidly opening throttle with a need for lots of enrichment.

Most of the time it's good, but because it's interpreting the injector signals from the ECU it is also limited by the timing of those pulses.

This post was last modified: 04-03-2024, 10:13 AM by fixitsan.

[Trevini]

 

 

Good info :good:

 

The on-off throttle is noticeable on my 2nd niner, probably due to fuel cutoff, like you say. I'm still thinking up a way to get around that by replacing the missing pulses to the injector

 

It came with a PC3 fitted, and I see it has throttle position maps, which the EJK doesn't have. I'm going to download software today to make sure it's been zeroed to the throttle sensor on the bike because sometimes it doesn't seem keen to associate a rapidly opening throttle with a need for lots of enrichment.

Most of the time it's good, but because it's interpreting the injector signals from the ECU it is also limited by the timing of those pulses.

You can set the PC3 map to inject a little extra fuel on zero throttle at any revs to help with the fuel cut off. Just don’t do it for the idle revs as it’ll throw the mixture out. 

[fixitsan]

You can set the PC3 map to inject a little extra fuel on zero throttle at any revs to help with the fuel cut off. Just don’t do it for the idle revs as it’ll throw the mixture out. 

 

That's true but I'm not sure it adds fuel when there's no signal coming from the ECU, such as when you're decelerating.

 

I've just plugged into my PC3, and added the 'accelerator pump' feature to give a bit more snap. I'll ride it later to test it.

Available under 'software' https://www.dynojet.com/downloads/power-...-pciiiusb/