Front-Sprocket: The Right Size Of This One --.. Should I Take A Thick One Or The Thin One

[sayhello]

hi there

 

 

front-sprocket: the right size of this one --.. should i take a thick one or the thin one

 

see my dealear:

 

 

as for the 18 teeth front sprocket he comes up with two different types

 

note - see the various thickness - the measures of the sprocket - we have a thick one and a thin one

which one to choose!?


the overview: two times 18 teeth:

https://cea.de/Ritzel-Stahl-Teilung-525-...%C3%A4hnen

 

[attachment=o15423]

 

 

 

see the thick one in details:

 

[attachment=o15424]

 

https://cea.de/Ritzel-Stahl-Teilung-525-...t-29034-18

Ritzel Stahl Teilung 525 mit 18 Zähnen Esjot 29034-18

    Artikelnummer: 129034.18

    GTIN: 4250885604961

    Kategorie: Kettenritzel 525



echnischen Daten des Kettenritzels Esjot 29034:



    Material: Chromoly SCM420 Stahl Legierung

    Aufnahme: 27 Zähne

    Durchmesser der Aufnahme: 28,5mm

    Durchmesser der Aufnahme: 30mm

    Ritzelstärke: 28mm

 

note this one is very thick - 28 mm ...

  Alle Kettenräder und Ritzel werden aus C45 oder C49 Stahl gefertigt und haben Erstausrüsterqualität. Wir verwenden ausschließlich Kettenräder und Ritzel der Top Markenhersteller JT ( Jomthai ), Maxum-Tech ( made by JT ), Supersprox oder Esjot. Ein erstklassiges Kettenrad und Ritzel sollte immer auch mit einer erstklassigen Kette verbaut werden. Deshalb kombinieren wir unsere Kettenräder immer nur mit den Ketten der japanischen Erstausrüster RK und DID.



 

 

the thin one

 

thin one:

https://cea.de/Ritzel-Stahl-Teilung-525-...-JTF118318





sprocket steel 525 18 teeth JTF1183.18



    Artikelnummer: 101183.18

    GTIN: 4250885603582

    Kategorie: Kettenritzel 525

525er  18 teeth see also  JTF1183.

 

[attachment=o15425]

 

well for me its quite difficult to choose

 

 

which one would you take - the

 

a. thick one, or the

b. thin one?

 

 

look forward to hear from you

 

cheers



 

This post was last modified: 16-10-2023, 12:03 PM by sayhello.

[fixitsan]

I would measure the output shaft.

What is the current sprocket ? If it is narrow and fits very well then it's correct, but there were a few years of the 850 towards the end of the production where they switched over, and then switched back. (I had the same problem after fitting an early output shaft into a late gearbox.

 

The narrow one, when fitted correctly on the appropriate shaft with lock washer is a good snug fit. And it's the same when the wide one is fitted on the appropriate shaft.

 

I think I've seen reports of some people's output shaft getting worn by a 'loose sprocket' and that made me realise they may have fitted a narrow sprocket when the original one should be wide.

 2 different sources gave me different years for the cut in. I believe the wide one was standard upto about 96, then for two or three years they went to narrow, then switched back to wide (or that may be the other way around, it was a while ago)

 

I would order one of each and try the wide one first, with the correct washer, and if the nut torques up correctly with a few spare threads on the shaft, send the narrow one back for a refund.

[Snowbird]

Is the Z13 & Z27 on the drawings showing 2 completely different splines?

Going by most of your posts on the subject I would suggest you take the bike along to a bike shop or competent mechanic and leave it alone yourself.

This post was last modified: 23-10-2023, 11:13 AM by Snowbird.

[Studley Ramrod]

Can't you remove the existing sprocket at measure it ? :unsure2:

[sayhello]

hello dear Fixitsan, snobird and Studley

 

first of all - many many thanks fpr the reply.

 

 

 

 


Can't you remove the existing sprocket at measure it ? :unsure2:

 

 

 

sure thing i will do so.

 

many many thanks dear Fixttsan

 

 

awesome thougths -

btw: i run on the tdm (model 2010) 42/16

 

 

 

 

 


I would measure the output shaft.

What is the current sprocket ? If it is narrow and fits very well then it's correct, but there were a few years of the 850 towards the end of the production where they switched over, and then switched back. (I had the same problem after fitting an early output shaft into a late gearbox.

 

The narrow one, when fitted correctly on the appropriate shaft with lock washer is a good snug fit. And it's the same when the wide one is fitted on the appropriate shaft.

 

I think I've seen reports of some people's output shaft getting worn by a 'loose sprocket' and that made me realise they may have fitted a narrow sprocket when the original one should be wide.

 2 different sources gave me different years for the cut in. I believe the wide one was standard upto about 96, then for two or three years they went to narrow, then switched back to wide (or that may be the other way around, it was a while ago)

 

I would order one of each and try the wide one first, with the correct washer, and if the nut torques up correctly with a few spare threads on the shaft, send the narrow one back for a refund.


 

 


 

 


i will do so - i will order this way.

 

many thanks fro all your ideas and thougts - for sharing them here.

 



 

[azza68]

Also make sure the front sprocket offset is the same as the sprocket on the rear; otherwise your chain will run off true, which will wear everything prematurely.

[sayhello]

Hi there dear AzzA 

many thanks - this is a good idea. I will do so. 

 

Thanks for all those great tipps, hints and ideas. This forum is a great place

 

regards 

sayHello

[sayhello]

hi there as for the reasr soprocket i use probalbly a 36 or 37 tooth part like  this.

 

[attachment=o15432]

 

 

cf  https://cea.de/Aluminum-sprocket-blank-i...h-36-teeth

... 

 

probably only the 37 teeth sprocket will fit - i ll have to try it out. Friends of mine work for years now on this kind of things.  They are experts - and awesome machinists. 

 

see what  they do.... (note this is not the TDM 900 job here - that is shown in the pic. )

 

 

 

 

[attachment=o15434]

 

we have lots of experience here -  a frind of mine - does this kind of work for years now.. 

This post was last modified: 03-11-2023, 04:31 PM by sayhello.

[steve27bha]

I have asked before - why not use a part designed for the TDM?

 

This item will need various changes - big centre hole, six holes to bolt to hub. Can you do this, accurately?

Also the item is in Aluminium which will wear rapidly unless it is hardened.

 

There is a steel JT sprocket available for less cost than your item:-

https://www.motomoto24.com/rear-sprocket...tr300.html

 

OK it is 39 teeth, but perhaps a 37 cannot be made without weakening the supporting material too much. The dimensions are for the JTR 300 series sprockets, which apparently also fit a range of Honda bikes! I can't find a JTR 300.37

 

I note you do not have a TDM yet according to your avatar caption.

[Snowbird]

Sorry to be blunt but every post on this subject so far says to me "leave it alone you don't have a clue what you are doing".

Is it april 1st yet?

[sayhello]

 
 hi there Steve,
 
 
just updated the post. !!! 
 
and yes  i am very glad that  you have written Steve. 
 
i will take your ideas into consideration .
 
we have lots of experience here -  a frind of mine - does this kind of work for years now.. 
 
 
BTW;  whats wrong with the avatar. This is a TDM 900 of the year 2010 
 
 
 
@snowbird  - i regard you as a  spammer... do not waste  your time continuing writing  such non_sense 

[sayhello]

Apart of 'Snowbird - i have lots of fun here. 

 

@snowbird - plz  stop spaming this thread.  its pretty useless -and i regard you as someone who cannot add any interesting idea here. 

 

but steve has good ideas of course.   its a pleasure to talk with him.. 

This post was last modified: 03-11-2023, 04:34 PM by sayhello.

[Snowbird]

<div>@snowbird  - i regard you as a  spammer... do not waste  your time continuing writing  such non_sense 
 

</div>

Thank you for the insult and the 2 PM's (who's spamming?), I'm afraid I can't help hearing alarm bells when someone keeps posting images of sprockets with differing splines and industrial sprockets not designed for a bike in wildly inappropriate ratios for the engine, I know of people that have been badly injured from chain issues locking up a back wheel at speed so can't help feeling the need to steer you away from doing something that could hurt you and other road users.

As requested I'll ignore this thread and let you play with your gearing in peace.

[steve27bha]

....
 

but steve has good ideas of course.   its a pleasure to talk with him.. 

steve has been trying to persuade you that what you are suggesting is wrong. Clearly I have failed. Snowbird has simply stated what I agree with.

 

If your picture shows how an "expert" would machine the necessary holes then I am less than impressed.

 

Your avatar may show a TDM but the caption below states "none yet".

 

Stop trying to re-invent the wheel (as we say in the UK) and go buy parts from a reliable supplier. It will be quicker, safer and cheaper.

[fixitsan]

steve has been trying to persuade you that what you are suggesting is wrong. Clearly I have failed. Snowbird has simply stated what I agree with.

 

If your picture shows how an "expert" would machine the necessary holes then I am less than impressed.

 

Your avatar may show a TDM but the caption below states "none yet".

 

Stop trying to re-invent the wheel (as we say in the UK) and go buy parts from a reliable supplier. It will be quicker, safer and cheaper.

+1 :good:

[azza68]

+1 :good:

 

+2

 

I geared down a little, using reputable parts, and the bike is better for it; there's no autobarns here and a 110kph national limit. The driveline NVH is dramatically reduced due to the f/r ratio and chain length being "ideal".

[curlylegend]

 

+2

 

I geared down a little, using reputable parts, and the bike is better for it; there's no autobarns here and a 110kph national limit. The driveline NVH is dramatically reduced due to the f/r ratio and chain length being "ideal".

How exactly did you do that ?  I wouldn't mind lowering my own gearing just a little, 1991 3VD TDM 850

[azza68]

How exactly did you do that ?  I wouldn't mind lowering my own gearing just a little, 1991 3VD TDM 850

 

http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/index.php?s...ntry274794

 

The ratio I chose for my 9'er is 15/43 with 118 links. It's very smooth running.

[curlylegend]

 

http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/index.php?s...ntry274794

 

The ratio I chose for my 9'er is 15/43 with 118 links. It's very smooth running.

Thanks a bunch for that.  I know what I'm getting for Christmas now !