Quote:Which ones did you fit? I've yet to see any I like that fit with std bars, are yours only compatible with the Renthals?
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DL 650 guards are a pretty easy fit, I used a dremmel to open out the hole in the outer end to the same diameter as the threaded section of the bar end weight, and then threadlocked the bar end weights in position instead of clamping them up tight. They've been rock solid for years.
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
Gave it a wash and a pat after a 1060 mile three day trip over to Skye and then round the top of Scotland. It drizzled all of the second day, and I had the hotgrips on all the time. B&B dried the kit for me.
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Found that the bird I hit didn't just strike the radiator area (thump, bang, feathers) but got there via the front of the mudguard, and cracked it. Perhaps I'd have a damaged radiator if it hadn't, so I won't complain - much.
TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     Â
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CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
Gave mine an oil change this afternoon, which took longer than anticipated. Firstly hunting around the house for an allen bit to fit the filter housing bolts (moved house and been doing some DIY so things not always in the most sensible place), then unsuccessfully hunting for a funnel that must have gone missing when we moved house. Luckily I had a 1 liter can of oil with a nozzle on the top, so decanted in to that from the big can and then squirted it in to the bike. Than I had to make a funnel out of an old milk carton in order to pour the old oil from the bowl in to the canÂ
Brake fluid will have to wait for another day.
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
Gave mine an oil change this afternoon, which took longer than anticipated. Firstly hunting around the house for an allen bit to fit the filter housing bolts (moved house and been doing some DIY so things not always in the most sensible place), then unsuccessfully hunting for a funnel that must have gone missing when we moved house. Luckily I had a 1 liter can of oil with a nozzle on the top, so decanted in to that from the big can and then squirted it in to the bike. Than I had to make a funnel out of an old milk carton in order to pour the old oil from the bowl in to the canÂ
Brake fluid will have to wait for another day.
Not today Chris, As I'm contacting my local mechanic for him to do it. He can have all the fun!
Quote:only running on 1 cylinder at low revs cleaned the carbs sorted that now they keep floodingÂ
float heights?
It could be a spec of crud on the float needle/seat. I'd suggest using some clear tube to check each carb fuel level, might help you narrow down the problem without having to check both carbs internally.
Have had the very same issue out of one, was the very problem Studley mentions, took a few tries though, said crud was minute in size.
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead  Gone to Heaven orry:
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1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   Sorted and on the Road Mick   it's the bike that Jack built  Gone to Heaven Â
It could be a spec of crud on the float needle/seat. I'd suggest using some clear tube to check each carb fuel level, might help you narrow down the problem without having to check both carbs internally.
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Quote:lol. yep. :good:
It could be a spec of crud on the float needle/seat. I'd suggest using some clear tube to check each carb fuel level, might help you narrow down the problem without having to check both carbs internally.
going to take the carbs off again before i winterize the bike drain the fuel remove battery etc and then fiddle with the carbs at my leisure before spring
going to take the carbs off again before i winterize the bike drain the fuel remove battery etc and then fiddle with the carbs at my leisure before spring
I'm Tiago from Portugal and I'm an owner of a TDM 900A from 2005 with 100K Km. I have been using this forum to answer most of my questions in the last year of ownership. I want to thank you all for the value information regarding maintenance and mods.
I have done the airbox mod last year (disconnect the cable from ECU) to make the bike more usable in the lower revs but still it didn´t compare to a 2 gen sv650 I had in the past.
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I found Frits44 list of instructions to change fueling and air intake on the TDM 900;
I bought a used air box and temperature sensor to mod;
I put the temp. sensor under the seat;
I removed the flap actuator;Â
CO both from 20 to 60; (still finding the sweet spot)
Stock exhaust with CATs;
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The difference is staggering. The bike can run in second gear without throttle input.
I'm still running the TPS at 17 which I consider to be the last point that needs to be addressed.
I was so excited when doing the mods that I didn´t took pictures. Next time the tank comes up I will post the changes!
Even the sound of the bike changed. Before the mods the bike sounded harsh at idle, wasn´t reeving freely and under acceleration it sounded like bogging.
I was looking for an air leak but never found one.
Now the idle is almost to quiet is revs freely and under acceleration it makes a growling sound.
The fuel consumption is higher dude to the hooligan effect but a highway test at constant speed is in order.
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I would love to hear your thoughts on why the TDM 900 have a tendency to lean with time! or was like this when new?
To add to the this last point I change the air filter and cleaned the fuel pump.
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I most also add that after the mods I found forgotten feelings and immediately started looking for throatier exhausts.