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What Have You Done To Your Tdm Today?

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What Have You Done To Your Tdm Today?
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What Have You Done To Your Tdm Today?

steve27bha

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RHS wear due to road camber?

TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     [Image: gallery_179098_391_770.jpg] [Image: sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg]  [Image: gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_253.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_82.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_725.gif] [Image: gallery_179098_391_797.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_501.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_316.jpg]  [Image: gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_106.jpg][Image: gallery_179098_391_2170.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg]

 

CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
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fixitsan

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Quote:RHS wear due to road camber?

That's a possibility.

I just fitted new tyres and went to scrub them, and on brand new symmetrical tyres it does feel like it's easier to get down on the right bends than the left. I'm going to check wheel alignment later using the string method which I know I can trust

Refitted both wheels with new tyres and replaced the rear shock Smile

<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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steve27bha

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Come and use my fluorescent tubes.

 

[attachment=o14515]



Attached Files
.jpg   DSC02437 800.JPG (Size: 371.61 KB / Downloads: 3)
TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     [Image: gallery_179098_391_770.jpg] [Image: sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg]  [Image: gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_253.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_82.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_725.gif] [Image: gallery_179098_391_797.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_501.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_316.jpg]  [Image: gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_106.jpg][Image: gallery_179098_391_2170.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg]

 

CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
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Snowbird

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don't think you can get tubes that long now, but a bloody good straight edge.

Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.

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fixitsan

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Quote:Come and use my fluorescent tubes.

 

[Image: attachicon.gif] DSC02437 800.JPG
 

Great idea Steve !

Actually you could help me, by seeing if the gap between the leading edge of your rear tyre is exactly the same distance from the swingarm on each side ? (is the swingarm symmeterical ? Could centering the wheel in the swingarm be a rough first attempt at setting rear wheel alignment ?)

 

I've done a string alignment and it rides much nicer now so I'm thinking it was out, but it was out in the wrong direction I would have thought. The leading edge of the rear tyre was pointing to the right relative to the trailing edge. I think uneven wear was possibly lots of confidence on right handers, particularly roundabouts, and because the rear wheel pointed to the right there was a bit more slip on the right side.

 

Prior to adjusting I could induce a steering wobble easily, but now if I try to induce a wobble it doesn't oscillate but settles down quickly.

 

I must have made a mistake the last time I set it, after stripping the arm to fit new new bearings.

 

Probably nothing to do with the ageing process....

<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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steve27bha

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Snowbird, those are 8', but 7' would just about do the job. Mine came from a skip, probably an office or shop refurbishment.



Fixit, I couldn't come up with a measuring device for the gap or get a reliable reading for the difference. However, the thickness of two bits of wood added up to the gap fairly accurately, and they seem to be the same. Access is difficult with the chain and silencer, plus hugger and various plumbing in the area. Caveat, I don't remember when I last checked the alignment!
TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     [Image: gallery_179098_391_770.jpg] [Image: sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg]  [Image: gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_253.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_82.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_725.gif] [Image: gallery_179098_391_797.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_501.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_316.jpg]  [Image: gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_106.jpg][Image: gallery_179098_391_2170.jpg] [Image: gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg]

 

CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
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fixitsan

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Quote:Snowbird, those are 8', but 7' would just about do the job. Mine came from a skip, probably an office or shop refurbishment.



Fixit, I couldn't come up with a measuring device for the gap or get a reliable reading for the difference. However, the thickness of two bits of wood added up to the gap fairly accurately, and they seem to be the same. Access is difficult with the chain and silencer, plus hugger and various plumbing in the area. Caveat, I don't remember when I last checked the alignment!

 

That's spot on Steve thanks for clarifying

 

The reason i asked is because I 'just assumed' the wheel would sit centrally in the swingarm and in the past I 'gap checked' both sides  with a similar piece of wood to get the wheel central. I thought it worked well enough then and the alignment marks on the swingarm were in the right ballpark.

But yesterday when aligning with the string the right position was with the rear wheel not centralised.

Again Might have just been my string, maybe I'll borrow the tubes in due course, but with the alignment marks on the swingarm now being equal and the bike riding very neutrally I might also just run it and see where it goes from here
<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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drewpy

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i used to use a vernier calliper from centre of axle to end of swingarm 

 

as i have a metmchex swinger on now it automatically centres both sides

"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"

Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs,  fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
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fixitsan

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Quote:i used to use a vernier calliper from centre of axle to end of swingarm 

 

as i have a metmchex swinger on now it automatically centres both sides

 

Is that due to eccentric adjusters ?

 

I think I've got an old swingarm in the garage, I could set up a centreline through it  with ye olde worlde string and see if the arms are an equal distance from the string, at a point the same distance along their length coinciding with where the wheel rim or the tyre'e edge usually aligns.

 

I'm away from home this week again, but i might look at that next weekend when I'm back. (Apparently there are these things called lasers ?)  Smile 
<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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Snowbird

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You have be careful about using bent string, apparently it's quite flexible and easy to bend.

Sorry, not helping am I......

Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.

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fixitsan

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Quote:You have be careful about using bent string, apparently it's quite flexible and easy to bend.

Sorry, not helping am I......

But still, it's probably good advice from the health and safety perspective
<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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Snowbird

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S

 

Quote:But still, it's probably good advice from the health and safety perspective

So if using bent string remember to wear a hardhat and condom....

Don't say you were not warned.

Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.

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Rallyist

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Went for a day out with my grandson, couldn't even get an ice cream at New Brighton, looks like the developers are having a hayday there.


[attachment=o14521]



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.jpg   P1000172.JPG (Size: 143.4 KB / Downloads: 8)
For a challenging summer try the





Round Britain Rally.....
  









1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 ....  1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS,  Triumph 5TA
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drewpy

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Quote:Went for a day out with my grandson, couldn't even get an ice cream at New Brighton, looks like the developers are having a hayday there.

[Image: attachicon.gif] P1000172.JPG
not been there for ages, used to take my kids every sunday and go crabbing and enjoy the fair when it was still there.
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"

Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs,  fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
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fixitsan

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Quote:S

 

So if using bent string remember to wear a hardhat and condom....

Don't say you were not warned.
I was genuinely wondering how the Metmachex arm is auto aligning. I shall have to read up on it

<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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Snowbird

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I had one on a Z650 years ago, I seem to recall the head end of the spindle had a keyway and the nut end had a flat so the concentric adjusters were always aligned.
Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.

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fixitsan

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Quote:I had one on a Z650 years ago, I seem to recall the head end of the spindle had a keyway and the nut end had a flat so the concentric adjusters were always aligned.

Nice idea !
<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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peter-may

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Quote:Went for a day out with my grandson, couldn't even get an ice cream at New Brighton, looks like the developers are having a hayday there.



[Image: attachicon.gif] <a class="bbc_url" href="http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=14521">P1000172.JPG</a>


I'm only 10 mins from NB Graham, and only visit if I really have to. Developers certainly have filled their boots. It gets ridiculously crowded or is deserted. Same problems as just about every area in the country!! There are nicer places around Wirral!
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Rallyist

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Quote:I'm only 10 mins from NB Graham, and only visit if I really have to. Developers certainly have filled their boots. It gets ridiculously crowded or is deserted. Same problems as just about every area in the country!! There are nicer places around Wirral!
Yes I know only visited out of curiosity as used to be there regular in the 1960's as my father in law and family lived in Walton and Bootle, and some still do, so was often up that way. :good:
For a challenging summer try the





Round Britain Rally.....
  









1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 ....  1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS,  Triumph 5TA
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fixitsan

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Scrubbed in the new Angel GTs over a couple of hours and was keen to see how they wore at the sipes compared to the last set of Angels while running the with the old shock (now on an Ohlins)

After keeping up with a couple of lads on serious bikes for 30 miles, accelerating as hard as possible out of every corner, the tyre wear looks to be completely even, with no lips on the sipes forming at all.

The uprated spring was worth fitting for my weight, and will be handy when I have a pillion too

 

The last Angel GT on the rear lasted 2300 miles with the old shock, lets see what this one does !

<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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