850 Destruction

[drewpy]

all my bikes are agreed value with RH.



£140 fully comp and breakdown, well worth it

[poppykle]

One thing I have learnt over the years is that you need to ignore any money spent when improving or modifying any vehicle.  Insurance companies are not in the business to cover your loss, they are there to make money.  I have lost on every modified vehicle I have done over the years. Fortunately only one has been stolen. I think I had spent around $12,000 on mods and improvements including a rebuilt motor. Insurance payout was $10,000. 

When discussing insurance with one company they advised taking it in for assessment.  When I did take it in the assessor said he could see the work done and agreed I had spent a lot of money but they would only pay market value if I made a claim.

[leehenty]

Ride this one carefully, too much time blood and tears invested in this one.

Swmbo won't authorise another expensive rebuild.

[dablik]

One thing I have learnt over the years is that you need to ignore any money spent when improving or modifying any vehicle.  Insurance companies are not in the business to cover your loss, they are there to make money.  I have lost on every modified vehicle I have done over the years. Fortunately only one has been stolen. I think I had spent around $12,000 on mods and improvements including a rebuilt motor. Insurance payout was $10,000. 

When discussing insurance with one company they advised taking it in for assessment.  When I did take it in the assessor said he could see the work done and agreed I had spent a lot of money but they would only pay market value if I made a claim.

 

So what was the point of an assessment then, if you have an agreed value that's what it is, otherwise market value, my one concern is only in the event of a write off i'll be left with not much, but that's how it's looking, so i'll just piss everyone off by riding slow now..

Ride this one carefully, too much time blood and tears invested in this one.

Swmbo won't authorise another expensive rebuild.

 

Oh i dunno Lee, i have my ways. no more Mexico for example 

[dablik]

I notice you've routed yer front brake lines behind the forks, whereas mine go around the front.  Do the lines on yours rub against the rad or is there plenty of space ?  Only asking as I'm thinking of re-routing mine.

 

Ian iv'e removed the bar raisers today (35mm) as my handle bars stays had a bit of play back and forth and are much better without them, so re-routed the brake lines around to the front re oem, lines, run loose from MC to calipers they rub a little against the inside of the cover below the clocks (will get a clip for them) but seem fine otherwise, also forks raised 12mm in the yokes, NOT rubbing against the Rad, i would get an extra 1/2-1" next time round though.

 

Up the shop on ebay has a listing from Venhill of which degree banjo swivel joints go with which bike, might be worth a call if your still interested as i think 9r lines may be a better choice...

[Studley Ramrod]

Cheers for the info.  :good: I fancy summat more standard loike oem lines Cliff, these braided wans don't really do it for me.  Look really skinny and they need to be protected where they come into contact with anything metal.  The rear wan on mine has signs of rusting where it's rubbed against the bracket. I've put some protective tape on it now.

[dablik]

Dont think you'll find any to match the oem lines and they are braided, i cut the old ones up to keep the metal 2 way adaptor for possible future use, in fact if you got braided lines in a 3 way configuration i doubt they would rub anywhere as the routing is more secure than 2 way but i would be tempted to use the oem 2 way adaptor as opposed to what's supplied in a 3 way kit, better fitment i reckon..

 

Think i'll change mine next year 

[Studley Ramrod]

Yeah, I meant mine being braided on the outside, as opposed to oem braided on the inside.  Depending on the fittings, I might be able to get some made up at my local hydraulic pipes R Us shop.  It's mainly the brackets that get rubbed on mine.  The rear hose has worn through the chrome plate on the bracket resulting in both getting rust marks.

[dablik]

:good:

[dablik]

Getting lots of popping and farting now at idle also unable to adjust the idle much and even a bit of choke is not making much difference, wondered if it was running a bit lean but as the chokes not helping either thought i might have some crud in the carbs from the tank, sure enough the bowls both had shoite in them, got a split inline filter as well which is not helping.... so cleaned the carbs and that helped some and the choke made a bit of difference this time but still not right, all is air tight carb side and the vacuum line is fixed tight but still some popping/backfiring and cant adjust the idle much..

 

Sat here wondering what's changed since she fired up and purred like a kitten and all i can think of is that the exhaust has been off twice now (sump leak) and put back using the same manifold gasket cos i forgot new ones...........think it's well overdue furra bloody blast... gotta be mot'd this week..

 

Thoughts anyone..

[drewpy]

did you balance the carbs?



Mine was a bit popping etc and balancing cured that

[Studley Ramrod]

Did you remove the pilot screws to clean the carbs Cliff ?  Might need re-adjusting and a balance as Drewpy says.  If not, they might need removing if there's some crud still in there.

[dablik]

No i did'nt balance them as would prefer to have run the bike right up to temp before hand which i would rather do on the road, doubt i could do them as quick as you though drew, did'nt remove the pilot screw's either, perhaps i should of, looks like i'll have time as i am having terrible trouble getting through to insurers this morning..

 

She was purring initially and i thought a good run may clear the carbs proper..

 

So if i run the bike up to temp at standstill it would ideally need to be at high idle i guess, otherwise wont i risk glazing the bores, it's not going to well is it 

[wicklamulla]

Cliff i dunno bout MK1 carbs. but with MK2a carbs the pilots can seize in situ and the cross heads in them for the screwdriver snap easily so beware!  Might be best to soak them with penetrating spray afore attempting removal. Go steady Obe Wan Cliffobe.

[dablik]

Cliff i dunno bout MK1 carbs. but with MK2a carbs the pilots can seize in situ and the cross heads in them for the screwdriver snap easily so beware!  Might be best to soak them with penetrating spray afore attempting removal. Go steady Obe Wan Cliffobe.

 

Cheers Ken, these should be fine though, already cleaned up a short while ago so will remove easily enough and the cross heads are as new matey..

[bjorge]

p1) It would surprise me if exhaust leak influences this much - I had a downpipe rusted off inside the header clamp and it ran ~OK just backfiring and soaked more fuel

 

p2) Do you run off reserve ? If so, try adding more fuel. Crud & water collects at the bottom....  

 

my 2ps 

[drewpy]

No i did'nt balance them as would prefer to have run the bike right up to temp before hand which i would rather do on the road, doubt i could do them as quick as you though drew, did'nt remove the pilot screw's either, perhaps i should of, looks like i'll have time as i am having terrible trouble getting through to insurers this morning..

 

She was purring initially and i thought a good run may clear the carbs proper..

 

So if i run the bike up to temp at standstill it would ideally need to be at high idle i guess, otherwise wont i risk glazing the bores, it's not going to well is it 

i replaced all my internal carb rubber with the green stuff.

 

You'd be suprised how much is in the kit and where

 

https://litetek.co/docs/LiteTekCarbDiagramTRX850.pdf

This post was last modified: 03-08-2020, 03:51 PM by drewpy.

[Studley Ramrod]

Have you got a snottoiler fitted ?  The vac pipe on mine managed to work itself free from the scottoiler and resulted in low power spluttering.

[dablik]

i replaced all my internal carb rubber with the green stuff.

 

You'd be suprised how much is in the kit and where

 

https://litetek.co/docs/LiteTekCarbDiagramTRX850.pdf

 

Way ahead of you there drew, got a set each for me and Studley awhile ago, talking of which, all looked in fine fettle today, no deterioration on the greenies  :good:

 

Edit.. Also split the carbs and replaced the butterfly shaft rubbers..

This post was last modified: 03-08-2020, 07:16 PM by dablik.

[dablik]

Have you got a snottoiler fitted ?  The vac pipe on mine managed to work itself free from the scottoiler and resulted in low power spluttering.

 

Nope got the same as Ramo, still not hooked the line up furrit... checked pilot screws and jets today, all is good... then noticed i've got naff all fuel in the tank now 

Get some in the morning now.

 

Thinking on about the shoite in the carbs, it was jellified so i think it porbably was'nt the tank given that it has a fuel filter inside plus an inline filter, i reckon i had some dodgy petrol from the corner petrol station..

p1) It would surprise me if exhaust leak influences this much - I had a downpipe rusted off inside the header clamp and it ran ~OK just backfiring and soaked more fuel

 

p2) Do you run off reserve ? If so, try adding more fuel. Crud & water collects at the bottom....  

 

my 2ps 

 

Good to know Bjorge re the exhaust, it's not been run on reserve though, i try and avoid it, not so sure it was shoite from the tank thinking on..

 

PS this bike malarkey is making me loopy now, pondering the bike i took me coffee cup to the loo for a pee, and gave the misses a shot of milk instead of gin out of the fridge  :unsure2:

This post was last modified: 03-08-2020, 07:41 PM by dablik.