[attachment=o13251]Not just today but over the past couple of weeks had the wheels powder coated + new tyres, bearings, seals and break discs.. had the rear pannier carriers and carrier supports powder coated. had the Givi crash bars powder coated. painted fork bottoms.. Fitted titanium disc bolts and sprocket nuts as well as new radiator and rad cover.. today fitted a screen extension and painted the side and center stands.. Not finished yet but a definite improvement..
04 900 - 92 mk 1 - r 1150 rs - Z550 A1 - 2x bonnies - plastic slug -XL185 - ...not in that order !! (and one or two i don't want / dare to own up to !!)
Well done Butch, they can be a pain in the rissole to change.
For the first time I've done them, I didn't think it was too bad. Funnily enough I read an old post of yours yesterday about Haynes not including helpful information, and two tips/points I think they could have included on fork seal change:
1 (this may of just been my forks and because the oil was old etc), but the sliding hammer action to separate the fork leg and stancion took bleeding ages, because it kept getting stuck at the top. Had to use a block o wood and gentle taps to free it, before one more slide, and it'd then get stuck again.
2 Saying to torque the damper rod bolt when you pop the cartride and stancion back in the leg - This is impossible because of course it just spins, and you can get anywhere near enough turns to get it sealed enough so it won't piddle out your new fork oil. (Learnt this the hard way) - So I had to temp install the spring and top bolt to get a bit more downward pressure to hold the cartridge still, so I could turn the damper rod bolt a bit more to seal it enough for the oil. Then of course spring back out to oil up and then properly re-assemble. I still can't quite torque one of them, as even with everything re-assembled you can feel and hear everything still spinning. Hoping that once its back in bike and top bolt torqued, that'll be enough to torque the bottom bolt.
Separating them was the trickiest part for me. One bush rode over the other and then got stuck in the seal.
There is a special tool for holding the damper rod in place, not sure who the current keeper is though. Others have used a broom handle to good effect, and yet others have spun it tight using a drill.
Post 463 may help.. and i found a little heat helped a lot to split the forks.
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead  Gone to Heaven orry:
Â
Â
1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   Sorted and on the Road Mick   it's the bike that Jack built  Gone to Heaven Â
I think thats what was happening in mine. I'd read about the broom handle trick, and I really didnt want to buy any special tools! I may try spinning next time!
The special tool is for Carpe members to use, you just pay for delivery postage, use it, then pass on to next member. Thinking on, not sure if it's only for 9'ers or if it can be used on all TDM forks.
Ah I see, didn't realise! I'll bear that in mind next time. Just went out to shed to check the one I can't quite torque, and I'd stood it up in a tub just in case it leaked, and there was prob 3 or 4 drops in there, so better than I'd expected. If this dam rain stops today I'll get it back on bike and hopefully torqued. If not, and anymore oil dribbles, I'll open the top and just pop a few drops in when I can get it back on.
If you let me know what the end of the tool should be, I can easily make an end up on the dividing head by milling. I have a spare loaner tool for 900 forks, not for 850's also does anyone know the internal diameter of a 41mm fork tube of an 850.
Niner is 29mm AF hex, or a 3/4" UNF bolt head 1.1/8" but for the niner I made a nylon plug to fit at top to keep it straight and protect the fine threads. Obviously a 41mm leg has a smaller internal diameter. Easy to make and I'm happy to make up a set for the club if someone wants to be the keeper of the tools.
I know my forks have been modified in the past (not by me), because mine have a big spacer at the top whereas in the haynes pictures, there wasn't. Also I had to use the old top bushes as the new ones were at least 2mm too small. They were also taller. Bottom ones were ok, and I put new ones in there.
Quote:Niner is 29mm AF hex, or a 3/4" UNF bolt head 1.1/8" but for the niner I made a nylon plug to fit at top to keep it straight and protect the fine threads. Obviously a 41mm leg has a smaller internal diameter. Easy to make and I'm happy to make up a set for the club if someone wants to be the keeper of the tools.
Just found this post Lee, measurements for mk1 tool are there but I dunno if they're useable measurements.
I made this years ago, I think it was for XT600 forks but may have been Z650 forks, anyhows the hex on the end is 27mm and it's about 450mm long.
If anyone needs it just ask, I am south cambs. (St.Neots).
[attachment=o13252]
Â
Edit: If TDM forks are smaller hex needed there's no reason I couldn't weld another nut on the end, just need tube ID and hex size, could even do a stepped one if 850 & 900 are different.
Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.
orry:
 Sorted and on the Road Mick 
 
