I'm sure we could sort summat out. :good:  Might help us hard working admins if you could stick with the same topic instead of posting up a noo wan on the same subject, please.  Also makes finding contributions much easier.
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Sorted now. :good:
I've been meaning to say and this seems a good time to do so. There is a problem with the trend to start these mega threads, as in 'What Did You Do To Your ******Today' in that good information gets swallowed up in them. They almost become a forum within a forum, but without the orderliness. Same with Facebook posts. A forum is a resource as much as it's a hangout.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
I'm sure we could sort summat out. :good:  Might help us hard working admins if you could stick with the same topic instead of posting up a noo wan on the same subject, please.  Also makes finding contributions much easier.
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Sorted now. :good:
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Many thanks Studley, that's absolutely fabulous!Â
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And I'll consider myself suitably and severely reprimanded for doubling up on the topic!Â
Quote:I'd check you're not missing a spacer there, or the wrong one is fitted. There shouldn't be any contact between those two bits.
I thought too that there should be a spacer between shock mount and arm block to avoid contact. But the exploded view drawing does not have any spacer (part 20 is oil seal).
Could it be that you have the wrong pin fitted? (31 in your diagram). No matter how hard the nut and bolt are tightened there should be no contact between the two components. If the shocker is grinding on the aluminium rocker arm there is something wrong. :unsure2:
Nah, can't get the bugger out. Tried all sorts of bolts just can't get ay purchase on the inside of the Bush. Whatever I use just pulls out. Must mean that it is really stuck.
Very frustrating, just going to have to reassemble and hope for the best.
Might try the easy out tap method next first though..
Quote:Nah, can't get the bugger out. Tried all sorts of bolts just can't get ay purchase on the inside of the Bush. Whatever I use just pulls out. Must mean that it is really stuck.
Very frustrating, just going to have to reassemble and hope for the best.
Might try the easy out tap method next first though..
Careful Rob if it's very stuck you'll chance breaking the swinger, looks like you may need to grind that fecker out..
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead  Gone to Heaven orry:
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1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   Sorted and on the Road Mick   it's the bike that Jack built  Gone to Heaven Â
Quote:Careful Rob if it's very stuck you'll chance breaking the swinger, looks like you may need to grind that fecker out..
To be more accurate you stand the chance of breaking off one or both of the lugs on the frame. That's really serious whereas swingarms are easily replaced.
You need to read all the posts, there are several threads with relevant content IIRC.
TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     Â
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CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
Been trying to service grease these links and was quite positive about the rawlbolt method.
Just bought some m6 which are the smallest that you can get as qfar as I can see.
Trouble is the frame hole is Bush is smaller than the other two which just pushed out.
The m6 doesn't go anywhere near fitting in the hole.
Am I missing something obvious here?
I am sure it will come out if I can just get some purchase on it as it was greased about 10k ago.
BBloody ridiculous piece of design this
I got some from Toolstation that fitted perfectly (the first one from B&Q wouldn't fit). PM me your name and address and I'll stick one in the post to you. I had to buy a pack of ten so have plenty. I coated liberally with plusgas, applied some heat with a heat gun and then gently tapped the end of the rawlbolt with a bolt from the rhs and it just eased out. Ali
2004 900 - Blue with lots of goodies
2012 900 - Still adding shiny bits. Was black, changed to white and now back to black again.
Quote:I got some from Toolstation that fitted perfectly (the first one from B&Q wouldn't fit). PM me your name and address and I'll stick one in the post to you. I had to buy a pack of ten so have plenty. I coated liberally with plusgas, applied some heat with a heat gun and then gently tapped the end of the rawlbolt with a bolt from the rhs and it just eased out. Ali
Hi guys, thanks for all the tips and offers of help had one last go today with a sleeve anchor from selco, plenty of wd 40 and heat from the wifes hairdryer.
It is out!! Had to gently tap from the blind side but once it was moving all was good. Bit of corrosion on where it passes through the left lug. Any longer and i reckon it would have seized up totally.
Phew.... very pleased with myself, time for a beer ð
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
New rear tyre time and a chance to clean up and service the linkage.
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All done bar the usual suspect
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Tackled it with this 10mm cap head set-up + a lot of heat
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Nothing moved, nada, zilch. :isurrender:
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It is supposed to be tight so that it does not rotate so that the bearing does. The bearing is smooth in action.
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Will have super plan in place for next tyre change time. :putemup: