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Quote:Are the fork seals rubber?
If so make sure you use proper red rubber grease.
Ordinary HMP grease with attack rubber and cause it to swell and cease to seal.
I had a rubber bush on my VFR swell by at least 25% because the previous owner greased it.
There are a lot of greases out there for specific purposes.
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So if I put HMP grease on something it swells in size.
The Mrs says 'thanks for that !'
<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.
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Quote:Â
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So if I put HMP grease on something it swells in size.
The Mrs says 'thanks for that !'
Â
The receiving part swells as well, so......Â
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I can't believe it is so long since I sold my TDM and stopped postinghere.
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It does have to be rubber so guess if it pleases your wife you won't be involved.
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Seriously I have recently serviced the rear calliper of my VFR and a rubber guide had swollen by about 25% because of the wrong grease being used. There are different greases for so many uses. I have at least six different types of grease all for different applications.
1953 BSA Bantam, 1960 Ariel Arrow, 1948 Vincent Rapide, 1959 Matchless G11, AJS 250CSR, 1986 BMW K75s, Suzuki 1999 GS500E, 2002 Suzuki SV650, 1991 VFR750 FL, 2007 TDM900
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Quote:I can't believe it is so long since I sold my TDM and stopped postinghere.
Â
It does have to be rubber so guess if it pleases your wife you won't be involved.
Â
Seriously I have recently serviced the rear calliper of my VFR and a rubber guide had swollen by about 25% because of the wrong grease being used. There are different greases for so many uses. I have at least six different types of grease all for different applications.
I have 5 types
Silicone
Lithium
Red stuff
Copper
An some LT stuff I'be had for years.
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There is also Alumslip as in copperslip grease for greasing bolts in aluminium. There is also grease for drum brake parts, very high melting point. In short it good to read up what the correct lubricant should be and what damage the wrong one can do.
I got a lot of this info from the VFR site.
1953 BSA Bantam, 1960 Ariel Arrow, 1948 Vincent Rapide, 1959 Matchless G11, AJS 250CSR, 1986 BMW K75s, Suzuki 1999 GS500E, 2002 Suzuki SV650, 1991 VFR750 FL, 2007 TDM900
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And marine grease/waterproof.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
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The Yamaha service manuals are great for showing the correct grease/loob to use on specific parts.
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Quote:And marine grease/waterproof.
Â
Would that be OK for wheel bearings etc?
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I use this stuff a lot https://www.belray.com/product/waterproof-grease/
Says for wheel bearings etc though I only use it for stinkages and exposed bits.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
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Thanks Daplep.Â
Â
Did you mean linkages or have you been through some cow shit and not cleaned the bike?
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not sure if anyone mentioned it
but just for reference according to the jbx site the 2004 onward models have a different oil capacity
Â
2002-2003,
quantity 507cm3,
level 133mm
Â
2004>
quantity 545cm3
level 127mm
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Hi Guys. Great thread, really useful as I'll be doing a front end refresh over the Christmas break. Going to lube the steering head bearings while I'm at it.
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What's the opinion on fork oil weight to use on my newly acquired '03 900?
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I see some use 10wt as recommended others go for 15wt or a mix.
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Not sure which way to go, and would appreciate some guidance before I go buy the oil.
The best thing about being old is we did all our stupid stuff before the Internet was invented, so thereâs no proof.
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Sphere.....very personal thing that, I found, depends on your build....errr...weight and riding style and probably a few other factors.
Personally, i've gone from 10wt to 15.....tried a mix (12.5) and gone back to 10 after being told at MoT that " your suspension setup is very hard"
So back to you!!   Good luck!
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"10w" pickled onion water is not 10w new oil. So maybe start with 10w and then adjust next time based on a baseline of new oil and not pickled onion water.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
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ATF is ideal in my opinion
For a challenging summer try the
Round Britain Rally.....
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1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 .... 1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS, Triumph 5TA
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Quote:"10w" pickled onion water is not 10w new oil. So maybe start with 10w and then adjust next time based on a baseline of new oil and not pickled onion water.
As usual Dappers, cut straight to the chase with clear, logical, well thought through advice.
EDIT....no emojis available, but I am winking and smiling....
Lock onto my co-ordinates and beam me up !!
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Well this fat fook has stuck 5 weight in and so far so good, 300 miles (3vd )and last time on the 900 had the forks bottom out with 12.5 weight oil, I would follow daps advice..
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orry:
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1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   Sorted and on the Road Mick   it's the bike that Jack built   Gone to Heaven 
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5w ? Is that a typo Dabs ? How much weight have you lost mate ?
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Thanks for the guidance chaps, I'll go with the std 10wt and see how it feels.
Â
I'm not that 'well built' but expect to add a few lbs, consuming cake while fettling. :cake eating:
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Be aware that there is no standard for "weight" in fork oils, and different brands' "10W" can vary considerably.
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Go see this item and the table and comments at the end:- http://www.mototribology.com/articles/su...on-fluids/
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To compare different weights you should do so within a single brand according to that. Other similar tables are available.
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