What Have You Done To Your Tdm Today?

[alanfavell]

Assembly  begun

 

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">CSM service

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">HT Leads - Magnacor & SA tape

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Aux wiring rationalisation

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Shim Shimmery

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">To Do

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Forks - oil & gaiters

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Oil & filter

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Rear suspension linkage

<p style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Remove, repaint & refit mainstand

[dablik]

Go Favs, that bike will feel newer than a new thing  :good: 

[alanfavell]

I'll be done with it by next week. I need to pop out for some coolant tomorrow.

 

Your turn to get busy & ready for warmer weather.

[dablik]

I'm on it, just need a change in the weather

[fixitsan]

Finally made a few DRL controller prototypes -- > https://www.flickr.com/photos/142331699@...ed-public/

[alanfavell]

Well done Fixitsan. Looks a neat little case too. Just the patent & instructions to sort now :good:

[fixitsan]

Well done Fixitsan. Looks a neat little case too. Just the patent & instructions to sort now :good:

 

Cheers. I got some DRL's the same as the ones you were getting (led strips about 8 inches long) and have tested with those. Seems alright, they get quite warm though, but that's very handy in Scotland right now

 

Hope to post one out tomorrow.

 

There are 5 wires to be connected nothing too technical.

[Rallyist]

 

Cheers. I got some DRL's the same as the ones you were getting (led strips about 8 inches long) and have tested with those. Seems alright, they get quite warm though, but that's very handy in Scotland right now

 

Hope to post one out tomorrow.

 

There are 5 wires to be connected nothing too technical.

put me on the interested list please

[fixitsan]

Changed the clutch --> https://www.flickr.com/photos/142331699@N02/40246958814

 

Fitted EBC heavy duty clutch plates, a new clutch cable (so smoooooth)  and taking in some of what Favs has said about replacing all his springs with heavy duty ones I only swapped 3 springs (in an alternating pattern), and it feels good   It takes more effort to pull the lever in but it isn't at the stage of being uncomfortable if using it a lot in town traffic. But then again I have big hands.

 

The original plate stack (9 plates)  were made up of the 2 outer plates having larger 'lands', manufactured from a different material to the rest. See the pic, the darker coloured material and large lands was an outer plate

 

The new clutch has 9 plates all of which look more like the darker coloured one one in the photo, and all have the larger lands. The 2 innermost plates of the original stack looked very dry and a bit glazed.(as per photo)

 

The new plates were soaked in oil for 3 days before installing. I don't know if that's necessary these days but I still do it !

[madmopedracer]

[attachment=o10798][attachment=o10799]FITTED MODIFIED CARB TO AIRBOX RUBBERS ON MY 850 3VD

got 75mm of 60mm silicone hose from ebay under£5

[attachment=o10800]had to enlarge the holes in airbox a couple of mm

new 70 mm hose clips to hold them on the carbs[attachment=o10801]

cut down the trumpets  and ground them down a bit with a coarse sanding disc

glued in place with hot glue gun then silicone[attachment=o10802][attachment=o10803]

screwed the airbox back together popped in new air filter job done

 

 

This post was last modified: 22-03-2018, 07:00 PM by madmopedracer.

[dablik]

Use the "More reply options to post" and at the bottom you will see the ability to browse photo's, choose photo, it will load, then attach to post, good job on the wubbers.

[TDM900OZ]

Did the airbox mod a while ago but it didn't seem to make a lot of difference, sooo i thought some more about it and last night I adjusted the throttle cable and added more slack ( it was a wee bit lacking in free play)

 

Instantly waay better, no surging and way smoother on/off the throttle it's like a different bike, I'm embarrassed to think it was so simple i should have thought of this earlier, I have been riding bikes for long enough, It must be that intelligence shielding thing someone mentioned..     

[92TDMFREQ]

I got some Galfer steel braided brake lines. Today my All Balls front and rear caliper rebuild kit, All Balls front and rear master cylinder rebuild kits showed up

[steve27bha]

Changed the clutch --> https://www.flickr.com/photos/142331699@N02/40246958814.

........

Chris,

Is that you lifting the bike with the EazyRizer straight on the exhaust pipes front and back?

I use an adapter kit to clamp onto and lift the footpegs at the rear, on my red version.

 

I'm currently waiting on some LED strips to make up DRL-type additions, using a gizmo to reduce the brightness and selecting Hi/off/Lo via an on/off/on switch - if it works!

This post was last modified: 27-03-2018, 03:10 PM by steve27bha.

[fixitsan]

Chris,

Is that you lifting the bike with the EazyRizer straight on the exhaust pipes front and back?

I use an adapter kit to clamp onto and lift the footpegs at the rear, on my red version.

 

I'm currently waiting on some LED strips to make up DRL-type additions, using a gizmo to reduce the brightness and selecting Hi/off/Lo via an on/off/on switch - if it works!

 

 

Hi Steve,

I had reservations about using the downpipes at the front as a lifting point, but the EZRizer website stated the following...

 

 

Exhaust Collector Pipes.

Lifting a bike via the engine sump or the chassis frame requires no clarification here, but one of the most frequent questions posed to our technical department by SuperBike owners is:

“Are you sure my collector pipes can support my machine?”

The answer is always the same,

” YES “

Although on many occasions you may elect to lift the front of your bike from the sump or the chassis, the question “can I lift via my collector pipes?” is perfectly understandable – but the simple fact is that supporting SuperBikes from the front collector pipes is an Industry Standard Procedure and is used throughout the industry by manufacturers, the retail & maintenance trade and competition departments across the world. This is borne out by the fact that we only get asked this question by private owners, because the trade are familiar with this technique.

Manufacturers use EazyRizer to lift customer bikes via the collector pipes!

Once you appreciate that the integral chassis design of some SuperBikes dictates that the front end MUST be lifted from the collector pipes, you will realise why the exhaust systems were designed from the outset to accommodate this procedure. Our customers NEVER have a problem with this Industry Standard Procedure, even elderly machines with corroded systems – remember, everyone gets a Money Back Guarantee, so you can be damned sure we’d know if they had a problem!

 

 

Lifting at the rear is achieved by lining the beam up with the raised legs of the centre stand as well as the outer edges of the exhaust link pipes. The link pipes are mounted into the standard collector pipes at the rear, so I am lifting it about 2" from the central mounting bolt towards the rear of the downpipes and just in front of the link pipes.

 

It is surprisingly stable but i can induce a bit of rock and roll without too much trouble, going into the future I'll be making something up to support the pegs which will make removing the exhaust components with the bike at waist height a possibility.

 

I'm going to have a go at splitting the front forks while they're clamped at the stanchions and raised up on Big Blue.....should be fun ! I'm happy with it for the £60 I paid

 

 

As for DRL control there's a lot of options. I know I've got my wee project ont he go but you can buy very small and cheap 12V PWM motor control boards, which I suspect only need the potentiometer removing and replacing with a light dependent resistor, LDR. Or there are even simpler 'night switches' available. The problem with these 2 methods is that they might change output as you go underneath streetlights....but hey it might make you more noticeable !

 

If you're going to use a resisistive method with a switch (if that was your plan ?)  then I would look to drop the voltage down to about 8V or 9V for a 50% reduction in brightness, and use a 3W or even 5W resistor. But because it's an LED and a current based device using the voltage like this isn't technically correct is it ?

Light output is proportional to current, and nearly linear

http://www.ledsmagazine.com/content/dam/...igFour.gif

so you need to probably look at the blue curve (white leds are doped blue leds) ?

 

If you want to try the controller I'm playing with drop me a line, I'm going to make another couple of prototypes soon, I need to add an on-off function to disable them for MOT testing

This post was last modified: 27-03-2018, 04:34 PM by fixitsan.

[Timbo1866]

Well not today

Sunday fitted new battery then went for a ride

But what kind of numpty does this

[attachment=o10818]

They fitted a wider battery so had to cut the battery box it also made it impossible to remove the battery without undoing the top of the shocker

Why why why do people butcher things just to save a few pennies

[fixitsan]

Well not today

Sunday fitted new battery then went for a ride

But what kind of numpty does this

AC0E34D0-24B3-4F4F-A57F-F959E218A491.jpeg

They fitted a wider battery so had to cut the battery box it also made it impossible to remove the battery without undoing the top of the shocker

Why why why do people butcher things just to save a few pennies

 

I may well have a spare mk2 battery box in my empire of dirt, if interested

[steve27bha]

....... going into the future I'll be making something up to support the pegs which will make removing the exhaust components with the bike at waist height a possibility.
 

..... you can buy very small and cheap 12V PWM motor control boards,.......

See the attached pic of the OEM supports for the TDM. They lift on the footpeg brackets directly and the U-shaped wingnutted straps hold the pegs and lock it all together. Come see the bits if you want to try your own make. I regularly lift on the pipes at the front, but with a wider pad than your bar. Wood block under sump in pic..

 

My light control gizmo is/will be? this item - in the post apparently. I'll have to frig about connecting it to bare wires.

[fixitsan]

See the attached pic of the OEM supports for the TDM. They lift on the footpeg brackets directly and the U-shaped wingnutted straps hold the pegs and lock it all together. Come see the bits if you want to try your own make. I regularly lift on the pipes at the front, but with a wider pad than your bar. Wood block under sump in pic..

 

My light control gizmo is/will be? this item - in the post apparently. I'll have to frig about connecting it to bare wires.

 

 

Those brackets look the business....can you ride the bike over the lift easily, or do you fit the brackets when the lift is put in place under the bike ?

 

The PWM device is just the sort of thing i was talking about. I've had to order one, it might be easier to retrofit one of those than to build a custom unit. ! They look reasonably well sealed too !

 

 

Just saw these ..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390965733377

 

 

or 69p each if bought in tens  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-LED-Stri...sis9yt2rqA

 

 

 

With an RF remote control  (getting fancy here)  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-5-24-V-15M..._nuw6xIsgg

This post was last modified: 28-03-2018, 08:11 PM by fixitsan.

[Timbo1866]

I may well have a spare mk2 battery box in my empire of dirt, if interested

Yep interested how much do you want for it