900 Air Box Mod....fantastic!

[richierex]

Just done the airbox mod, used the #1 method, pin out from ECU as it is by far the easiest to do and of course to reverse. So how is it? Well it pops a bit on the overrun now and again and seems to take a little longer to start but I will have to put a few more miles on it. no other real differences, oh and exhausts look a little more blue. So not sure if its done much, 2007 900A 

[tdm92]

Just performed method C on an 11,000 mile, 2004 bike - long-nosed pliers and ball bearing took less than 2 minutes. Improvement is very good and the low speed lumpiness remaining is a feature of the 270 crank. My mk1 is smoother at low revs.

One point: JBX site mixes left and right for diagram A and its text.


A very big thank you to the originator of this information and

for keeping it available.

[Studley Ramrod]

:wifgeni:  mk1 is smoother at low revs.

 

Removed the pin from the ecu on my 2002 9'er and there's a good improvement in useability under 3000rpm.  Pootling around town was lemon squeezy. :badgerrock:

[muddy]

:wifgeni:  mk1 is smoother at low revs.

 

Removed the pin from the ecu on my 2002 9'er and there's a good improvement in useability under 3000rpm.  Pootling around town was lemon squeezy. :badgerrock:

Can you tell me how to do that, in noddy language if possible. It's all getting a bit complicated.

This post was last modified: 24-05-2016, 01:18 PM by muddy.

[Studley Ramrod]

Remove left side panel, all 6 bolts worth (lol) unclip the ecu wiring socket that plugs into the ecu.  Locate the No.8 wire, it's a brown wire located next to a green and yellow wire.  Gently pull at it whilst at the same time press on the thin white plastic strip and the wire will pop out.  Push the white strip on the opposite side back, plug the socket back into the ecu then fire her up to make sure it starts and runs ok.  Replace the side panel and the 6 bolts and go ferra pootle.

[muddy]

Remove left side panel, all 6 bolts worth (lol) unclip the ecu wiring socket that plugs into the ecu.  Locate the No.8 wire, it's a brown wire located next to a green and yellow wire.  Gently pull at it whilst at the same time press on the thin white plastic strip and the wire will pop out.  Push the white strip on the opposite side back, plug the socket back into the ecu then fire her up to make sure it starts and runs ok.  Replace the side panel and the 6 bolts and go ferra pootle.

Ta muchly

[Catteeclan]

Remove left side panel, all 6 bolts worth (lol) unclip the ecu wiring socket that plugs into the ecu.  Locate the No.8 wire, it's a brown wire located next to a green and yellow wire.  Gently pull at it whilst at the same time press on the thin white plastic strip and the wire will pop out.  Push the white strip on the opposite side back, plug the socket back into the ecu then fire her up to make sure it starts and runs ok.  Replace the side panel and the 6 bolts and go ferra pootle.

 

Is that the wire to the air flap control valve?

[Studley Ramrod]

Yes it is.

[frits44]

Good morning gentleman,

 

I just tested my bike with new separated air filters, I can not notice any difference with my modified cover of the air box.

It only gives you  much more sound, and that is not good. ( I borrowed these filters from a friend )

So I put my modified air box back on my bike.

I was testing things. 

 

http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/frits4...sort=3&o=0

 

Have a nice day.

 

Greetings,Frits from holland

[tdm92]

I have now performed all three of the modifications: blocked the vacuum take-off tube, disconnected the electrical circuit at the connector block and removed all of the airbox flap gubbins entirely.

 

That leaves a hole in the airbox cover;

[sharedmedia=gallery:images:2182]
 

Looks unfinished and so I first made it round;

[sharedmedia=gallery:images:2183]
 
Then made a velocity stack from an old Grip Puppy and superglue;

<div>[sharedmedia=gallery:images:2184]
 

<div>[sharedmedia=gallery:images:2185]
 
Superglued in place;
<div>[sharedmedia=gallery:images:2186]
 
Tidies it up and won't damage anything if it comes loose.
 
I doubt it alone has done anything noticeable but after all the mods the bike now pulls on a slight incline in first gear on closed throttle with no snatchiness.  Also smoother in second gear around the 1500rpm area than it was with just the blocked vacuum take-off tube.
 

</div>
 

</div>
 
 

</div>

[frits44]

Hombre good work,

 

You know now that the engine needs much more air

If you make the holes bigger then your engine will do 1200 rpm in second gear.

Also like fixitsan did, remove 10cm foam away on each site .

And set your Co a little higher with stock exhaust around  25 to 30.

 

again nice work.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

[frits44]

I just measured the two little air holes on the inside of the stock cover from a stock air box.

 

I have spare covers and air boxes  to test things.

 

One little hole is 2,5 cm / 1,5 cm, and the other is 5,5 cm/ 3 cm.

 

I measured it on the inside of the cover.

 

The two inlet rubber air tubes on the throttle houses  are almost 4,5cm in diameter each

 

So what I am trying to say is the engine needs more air, the air inlet of the stock cover from the air box 

is much to small.

 

Thats why I modified my cover of the air box, to get more air.( on of effect is completely gone )

 

My own cover of the air box has one big air inlet 12 cm / 4,5 cm, and I removed 10 cm foam on each side of the tank.

 

Greetings,Frits from holland

[tdm92]

Frits, I doubt the engine is starved of air at just over tickover speeds on a slight whiff of throttle. But if you believe that then I am happy for you.

[ProDrive]

Frits, I doubt the engine is starved of air at just over tickover speeds on a slight whiff of throttle. But if you believe that then I am happy for you.

 

Try it and you will believe it. I did all the mod. Frits44 mentioned. The engine is so much more responsive on the gas even obove 8000 Rpm.

 

This is how the TDM should veel like without the Euro3 norm. Much more torq on low Rpm with duo on a roundabout with 1500 Rpm is easy and no problem.

[dapleb]

Well done boys, sounds like you have got them running loike a mk1 nearly. Keep goin. ;-)

[richierex]

Did this mod to my 2007 ABS by removing the wire from the multiplug. I immediately noticed it was slightly harder to start and there was a light backfire when revving up. On a test ride of around 70 miles, it was terrible, hesitating on a steady throttle and coming in with a bang on acceleration.

 

So I put the wire back today and what a revelation, starts at the lightest touch of the button and ran very smoothly on a 165 mile round trip.

 

It is therefore my opinion that this mod does not work on a 2007 ABS model. I have heard that it does not work on 2006 onward and this could well be true. Just letting you know as it seems to be a " must do " on these bikes.

[mradu]

Hey guys,

 

This might not be the correct topic, but it's somewhat related.

A few days ago I was considering taking the plunge and doing the mod (I love my bikes stock), as I had a huge issue around 1800-2000rpm gap.

The bike would cut out, run on one cylinder, etc; it was unusable in that range.

As I noticed that my idle was also acting up a bit, i took the time to fiddle with the automatic choke (I have done it before, but this time I really insisted) until it ran perfectly.

I can tell you now that without the mod, in first gear I can ride the bike starting with 1600rpm (you fill the pulsation of the cyclinders, but other than that it runs great) and I can use the bike at 2000rpms in 3rd.

So before doing the mod, give that automatic choke a complete service until it runs perfectly smooth. It might solve your issue too.

Also, a small question. Are the bands holding the end cans stainless, or chromed steel?

 

 

Radu.

This post was last modified: 25-11-2016, 01:05 PM by mradu.

[tdm92]

Hi, what year is your 9er. Later ones are different.


Stainless is either weakly magnetic or nonmagnetic so it is easy to check.

[TheTallGuy]

Hi,

 

I know this topic is as old as the hills but i can't find the files by JBX online any longer. Would i be right in thinking the later TDMs don't respond so well to the 'wire snip' [mine's one of the last, bought in 2013] if so is the blanking off of the vacuum hose any more effective or is it tough luck if you have a newer and I have to live with it or change for something else?

 

Many thanks guys.

 

Jon.

[RobMitchell]

I've just done the airbox mod on my '06 tdm by removing the black/brown wire from the ecu. It's now much better at low revs. The only trouble is that it seems to have disabled the cold start mechanism. Where have I gone wrong?