900 Air Box Mod....fantastic!

[vivaldi]

Hi all,

 

I have done airbox mode (completely removed), K&N installed, running on Leovince SBK. Low revs running  is definitely better. Done also PAIR disabling (by screw in hose just below airbox), but I haven't been noticing any change at low revs.. What's about idea of reaching fuel mixture by adding some points to existing CO mode settings ? Cause I think when doing airbox mode, fuel mixture is more lean because of delivering more air and keeping fuel dose. Fuel injection system in TDM 900 is very simple, there is no airflow sensor, only one lamba sensor. So IMO CO settings should be changed for richer fuel mixture. I made small experiment - tried to set CO mode using CO gas analyser and noticed fabric setting gave CO more than 4% - so I decreased Co to 4%. Rode 500km and the went back to fabric and rode another 500km. Fabric (richer) mixture gave more torque on low revs of course. What's about fuel consumption ? Didn't noticed any change between both settings.. Soft riding - 4,6/100km, hard and fast, touching red field - 4,9l/100km

Final question is  - how to set CO to have correct fuel mixture having airbox mode done, full open exhaust as well as K&N ? Is there any recipe ( in service manual there are just few words - set CO between 3-4%) ?

 

BR,

 

Vivaldi

[vivaldi]

Hello,

 

anybody know ?

[muddy]

Hi all,

 

I have done airbox mode (completely removed), K&N installed, running on Leovince SBK. Low revs running  is definitely better. Done also PAIR disabling (by screw in hose just below airbox), but I haven't been noticing any change at low revs.. What's about idea of reaching fuel mixture by adding some points to existing CO mode settings ? Cause I think when doing airbox mode, fuel mixture is more lean because of delivering more air and keeping fuel dose. Fuel injection system in TDM 900 is very simple, there is no airflow sensor, only one lamba sensor. So IMO CO settings should be changed for richer fuel mixture. I made small experiment - tried to set CO mode using CO gas analyser and noticed fabric setting gave CO more than 4% - so I decreased Co to 4%. Rode 500km and the went back to fabric and rode another 500km. Fabric (richer) mixture gave more torque on low revs of course. What's about fuel consumption ? Didn't noticed any change between both settings.. Soft riding - 4,6/100km, hard and fast, touching red field - 4,9l/100km

Final question is  - how to set CO to have correct fuel mixture having airbox mode done, full open exhaust as well as K&N ? Is there any recipe ( in service manual there are just few words - set CO between 3-4%) ?

 

BR,

 

Vivaldi

My solution was not so technical. With my Fuel (aftermarket) exhausts, the airbox mod didn't help the poor fueling at low RPM. I put the stock (factory) exhaust pipes back on the bike and the airbox mod worked, no more stuttering. There are many, many threads on this problem if you do a search. 

[vivaldi]

yep, I saw a few topics, but I have feeling nobody solved the issue and found recipe to set CO i proper way

The other thing is if the both C1 & C2 settings should be more less tha same or different +- 10-16 points..

 

I like my TDM very much (this on is my 3rd TDM, 3vd->4tx>5PS) and I know there is more hidden power in that engine, and it's not so hard to get it back

 

BR,

 

Vivaldi

[arthurbikemad]

When we mapped mine it was VERY lean with the open cans, filter, PAIR disabled, no lambda and a PC3, we only mapped the overall AFR but header pipe colour shows that one cylinder was running hotter, its normal that in this config one would be hotter and need more fuel to help compensate (direction of coolant flow etc), I am told that the older model headers have a sample point in each down pipe unlike the new model TDM (2012), I wanted to test to see what effect the C1&2 trims had on AFR but sadly ran out of time and we only had a sample tube that reached into the system so far so could not answer the question.

This post was last modified: 06-06-2014, 07:07 PM by arthurbikemad.

[MarkyMark]

Thanx guys


BTW all those who did this mod must send me US$10 000.

 

 

have you got a fax number ?

[vivaldi]

I tried to find the solution over internet, and it said AFR 14,7:1 is not optimal for maximal power - 12,6-13:1 doing the job. If you would like to have great mileage  then AFR should be 15,4:1 - both values for Pb95-98.

[smid69]

airbox mod?

[muddy]

 

 

have you got a fax number ?

He doesn't want the money anymore. He is rather fond of marmite and mint sauce though, so a parcel of assorted English food stuff will cheer him up immensely

[Studley Ramrod]

airbox mod?

 

Link is in the first post   http://jbx9.free.fr/TDM/index.php?show=t...AIR&lng=en

[jlittle]

Can anyone explain the mod to me, i have tried to open the JBX link but it is not working

[Matt51F1]

@jlittle,

3 methods:

#1 is to remove a wire from the ECU.  I wouldn't recommend without pictures.

#2 is to remove the vacuum hose from the device on top of the airbox that closes off the main intake and blanking off the hose. This is my preference as it is the easiest option to reverse.

#3 is to put a blanking plug on the throttle body (best with pics).

 

Stick with option #2 as it is hard to mess up with that one.  You need to remove side panels, side covers, and tilt up the tank.  It will take longer to do all the screws than the 'fix'.

 

I've been meaning to do it myself for ages but never got around to it.  I went a bit further than any of the instructions and did a bigger mod and the change is fantastic.

[Craig]

 

I've been meaning to do it myself for ages but never got around to it.  I went a bit further than any of the instructions and did a bigger mod and the change is fantastic.

I'm intrigued. Please enlighten me further with what your "Bigger mod" entailed ?

I myself did option 2 pretty soon after acquiring my 2005 & handling around town etc was vastly improved .....

[Matt51F1]

@Craig:

 

Of all of the posts I have seen about the airbox modification, they just talked about unhooking the vacuum solenoid from the flap or the line from the pump.  I guess I worded it like that to see if anyone would bite as it probably isn't that 'new' or 'great'

 

Since we don't get incredibly cold weather here, I decided to remove the flap completely and open up the box just that little bit more while richening the mix to compensate.  Removing the vacuum solenoid from the top would have allowed water to fall into the airbox as I ride through all weather and because the bike has over 185000km on it, nobody will buy it second-hand - so I figured that I could have a play with it.

 

I drilled through the plastic rivets under the cover and removed the flap completely as well as the vacuum solenoid and fittings underneath the airbox that aren't needed any more.  To prevent water running into the airbox, I cut out a circle of plastic and used a product called Plastex (from the USA) to seal up the top hole and the holes where the drill came through in removing the plastic rivets.

 

Richen up the mix to compensate for the extra air allowed in and it makes a noticable difference

[Wallander]

Don't forget to do the "second airbox mod": 15T front sprocket!

 

These 2 mods with the standard exhaust makes for a very nice behaving all-around bike.

[Latestarter]

Don't forget to do the "second airbox mod": 15T front sprocket!

 

These 2 mods with the standard exhaust makes for a very nice behaving all-around bike.

Really interested in the 15T front sprocket quote.... More info please ;-)

[Wallander]

Really interested in the 15T front sprocket quote.... More info please ;-)

 

It's just changing the front sprocket from the OEM 16T size to the one tooth smaller 15T. It makes the bike rev a bit more at the same speed, accelerates better, but most importantly lugs better. If your main driving area is not the German autobahns, I would recommend to do it!

[Splodge]

When I did the mod I unplugged the (now redundant) gubbins under the airbox but had the yellow engine warning light glaring at me permanently. Reconnecting solved that little problem. Just so ya know, ya know!

[Matt51F1]

Don't forget to do the "second airbox mod": 15T front sprocket!

 

These 2 mods with the standard exhaust makes for a very nice behaving all-around bike.

 

@<a class="" href="http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/index.php?showuser=179055" title=""><span>Wallander</a></span>,

 

Sorry to contradict you (and I'm not doing this to be an arse or anything ) but I have found that sprocket selection for a rider comes down to trial & error.

 

For me, with the last three chains and sprockets (I get about 40,000km out of a set), I have used Esjot sprockets as they give fantastic longevity and the chain does not stretch or wear out anywhere near as quickly as when using the generic sprockets you get from the shops.  The Esjot ones *are* double the cost of the cheapies but you feel it in the ride and I need to adjust the chain maybe a quarter as much as with cheap sprockets.  I also converted it to 530 setup as well.

 

The problem is that Esjot doesn't make a 42-tooth rear (OK - maybe they do make but it isn't available in Australia) sprocket in 530 to suit the 2002+ TDM.  I ran one period with a 16-41 which was great on the highway and crap in the city.  I was running out of tyre edge with the 160 rear tyre and going to the correct size for that rim (170) makes the bike handle *that* much better with the 5% chicken strips for when you need it.

I then went to the 43 rear and the bike seemed to be over-revving.

 

Yes, yes... I hear people say that one tooth doesn't make a difference.  It does if you know the bike - it really does.

 

So, after the 16-43, I thought I would try to get closer to factory by using a 15-39 setup.  It was closer and better but the problem is that the smaller the front sprocket, the quicker you wear out the chain.

 

I should note that all of these combinations were before doing the airbox mod.

 

Then I opened the airbox right up (see previous post) and put on a 17-45 combination. This puts the mix right in the middle of stock and the 16-43 combination - and it is absolutely spot-on for the way I ride.

 

I've just put on a Top Sellerie Type-1 seat and it was bloody beautiful in the twisties on the weekend and the bike kept wanting to run away over 5,000rpm in top.  The trouble is that the roads are all 100kph and the flash-for-cash can be anywhere. I was also running low on fuel with 75km to the nearest servo and down to 2 bars - so I had to slow down :/

 

Just changing the front sprocket to 15t will reduce your known speed indication by nearly 7%  That's a big difference.  If you plan on doing that, get a Speedo Healer.

[Wallander]

Matt51F1, no problems at all contradicting me You are right, one should try the lower gearing, but to be honest, I haven't heard anyone complaining about it.

 

It's the same here, not many chances to try top speed in 6th, so you don't have too much to loose with a lower gearing.

 

I use a 15T JT sprocket, only 20k kms on it, but it still looks like new.

 

 

Nice mileage on your bike! Apart from setting valve clearances, any issues with the bike? Mike has 50k kms, so it's just run in...