looking to do the seals on my mk1 850. just ordered them on ebay. i've done this job on a few bikes in the last five years any thing i need to look out for when doing this job on a tdm. what weight oil and how much per fork are you gental foke using? my forks are squeaking at me which is making me think i've go no oil in or very little them which is kinda worrying. (seems fine while riding) the dust seals are looking a bit crappy tho. just passed an MOT today with them.
Fork oil capacity is 395cc per fork. Haynes say 10w oil but I think Yamaha have it at 7.5w. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]
I doubt very much if you'll get the old seals removed without damaging the fork bushes, unless you can force them out without having to separate the upper and lower parts. Chances are they're already damaged if there isn't any oil in the forks.
I'll say it again, but ya really will need a Haynes manual if you have to separate the forks. There are various bolts and washers, adjusters, rods and springs in there that would be difficult for anyone to accurately describe. Even the parts diagram takes some working out ! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
Metal Slide 1 & Metal Slide 2 are the upper and lower bushes.
Are you sure you need to do all this matey ? If it's handling fine and passed the mot the squeak might just be summat else like the clutch cable or the brake hoses catching.
I wouldn't go near my fork seals unless it were absolutely necessary, jobs a PITA.
i have seen a bit of residue on the forks and the dust seals are knackard. it's the forks squeaking just bloody annoying. i LOVE TINKERING WITH MY BIKE. i don't go out drinking or smoke. this is my sort of hobbie. the seals are on the way. untill i look under the dust seals i won't now the extent of the leak thanks for the linky
<!--quoteo(post=246568:date=Sun 1st Jul 2012, 11:19 AM:name=openroad)-->QUOTE(openroad @ Sun 1st Jul 2012, 11:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->i LOVE TINKERING WITH MY BIKE.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Defo get a heinz manuel then.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Have you got the pdf parts file for your bike openroad ? Very handy with the exploded diagrams and you also get all the correct part numbers.
If you register on JBX's toptastic site you can download the files for free, registering is also free ! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
<!--quoteo(post=246140:date=Mon 25th Jun 2012, 06:22 PM:name=dapleb)-->QUOTE(dapleb @ Mon 25th Jun 2012, 06:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Good move but you "missed out" on the pickled onion water Thomas. Oi can send thee a <i><!--coloro:#FF0000--><!--/coloro-->wee sample<!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc--></i> so you don't feel left oot. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir,
forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector," NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel
CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 20
07 on a dyno run it made
79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
Not sure if this has been mentioned in the thread up to now but...
Once you're ready to separate the tubes from the sliders, it's a lot easier to do this if you gently warm the slider around where the top bush sits. I did mine with a blow torch but a hot air gun or boiling water on a rag wrapped around the top of the slider would do the same job. A gentle heat is all that's required, aluminium is a good heat conductor with a relatively low melting point! If you're lucky you might save your fork bushes. On mine, one side was okay the other ruined, but I'm replacing bushes on both sides anyway.
As mentioned already, use genuine Yam seals. I replaced seals on my FJ1200 three times in short succession before I ordered OEM, they're not much more expensive anyway.
I think I'm not the only one having run into trouble with aftermarket seals. Hat do change a couple of those after a few days - used genuine Yam ones after that.
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A comment on the video: This way of separation of fork tubes are ~ 43.55% certainly ending up in warped bushings.
Bjorge-> From the Amazon link, do those seals appear to be the ones you ordered? What all other parts did you replace in the fork seal job or were they just the seals themselves?
Its not tricky and if not done fur a while then worth replacing bottom bushes anyway so doesn't matter if ya ruin em.
I would def do em yersen-----we can talk ya through stage by stage!
Havin said that, if seals not leaking then just changing the pickled onion water will make a big diff!!!
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
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