Knocked a jig up and tried this with both my sets of forks, one set old & manky other set effectiveley brand new
Didnt work [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]
ended up doing the std slide hammer method on newer forks
old ones are waiting for liberal application of oxy-acteylene [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img]
Done: Homo sap navigation/ twisty thing on bars to make it go vroom/ grabby thing to make it stop (in front of twisty thing)/ 'leccy things front and rear to make it glow at night/ Sucky + drippy oiler thing to keep chains moist (!!) / Laser Pro Stock Race pipes / bleeding ear drums (see previous mod)
To do: Educate homo sap nav system to operate twisty + grabby things/ get ear plugs
<!--sizeo:2--><!--/sizeo-->All Trashed Now... Pants... its a Cat B<!--sizec--><!--/sizec--> <!--sizeo:3--><!--/sizeo--><b>Mwahahaha it lives again!!</b><!--sizec--><!--/sizec-->
<!--sizeo:2--><!--/sizeo-->Remember every driver is a deaf myoptic twat who is out to kill you, ALWAYS assume they are going to do THE most f*cking DUMBASS, STUPID manouver possible, at the worst possible moment; get past, and get past quick<!--sizec--><!--/sizec-->
<!--quoteo(post=160470:date=Tue 27th Apr 2010, 05:20 PM:name=dapleb)-->QUOTE(dapleb @ Tue 27th Apr 2010, 05:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->A dismantling option saving the teflon bushes. http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/index.php?sho...;hl=fork+teflon<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
That method didn't work for me. Inner tube was going out but oil seal was still there, so bushes were overlapped.
To save the bushes I used oil pressure method described earlier. I extended fork for about 10 centimeters, filled it up with oil, closed top cap, covered seal area with some rag to avoid oil fountain and tried fork compressing with strap. It was very inconvenient, so I invented new way -
Just pushed that construction to make it straight and oil seal came out easily with minimal oil spillage. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]
<!--quoteo(post=221937:date=Sat 1st Oct 2011, 06:47 PM:name=Taras)-->QUOTE(Taras @ Sat 1st Oct 2011, 06:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->To save the bushes I used oil pressure method described earlier.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
That won't save yer bushes as you still need to get lower bush over upper bush.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
<!--quoteo(post=221942:date=Sat 1st Oct 2011, 09:28 PM:name=dapleb)-->QUOTE(dapleb @ Sat 1st Oct 2011, 09:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->That won't save yer bushes as you still need to get lower bush over upper bush.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I wasn't sure if I need to extract them. Expected to change only oil seal.
Still trying to work out if you are a giant or just a low garage. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
I've finally got around to changing the fork seals on the MKI.
I've removed the forks and used the oil fill method to pop the seal out, had to beat the shit out of it with my sledge hammer! This popped out the seal and the top bush. The top bush looks fine to me so I'm guessing the bottom bush will be fine also so I could fit the new seal and pop it all back together...... but I want to repaint the fork legs as the paint is crap.
So how the feck do I undo the bolt up the bottom of the fork leg, which holds the damper?
I need a looooonnnnggggg socket, what size? Anyone?
The damper rod bolt is an allen socket head type, I used a long allen socket in my drill. Press down on the fork tube to help stop the damper rod moving when you undo it.
<!--quoteo(post=243417:date=Sat 26th May 2012, 02:45 PM:name=MaximusPetrolhead)-->QUOTE(MaximusPetrolhead @ Sat 26th May 2012, 02:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->used the oil fill method to pop the seal out, had to beat (it) out of it with my sledge hammer!<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Hmm I must have missed this bit of the Bjorge method. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img]
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
<!--quoteo(post=243424:date=Sat 26th May 2012, 04:04 PM:name=Studley Ramrod)-->QUOTE(Studley Ramrod @ Sat 26th May 2012, 04:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->The damper rod bolt is an allen socket head type, I used a long allen socket in my drill. Press down on the fork tube to help stop the damper rod moving when you undo it.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I've tried that but it just spins.
I can see a large hex nut jobbie inside the fork leg, so assuming I can get a very long socket type thing made up at work I should be able to get it loose, but I need to know the size of it.
Okay i know this is gonna sound stupid,, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,did'nt someone stick a broom handle or a piece of copper pipe to hold the cartridge still [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead  Gone to Heaven orry:
Â
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1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   Sorted and on the Road Mick   it's the bike that Jack built  Gone to Heaven Â
<!--quoteo(post=243466:date=Sat 26th May 2012, 10:05 PM:name=dablik)-->QUOTE(dablik @ Sat 26th May 2012, 10:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Okay i know this is gonna sound stupid,,<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Tats wan way of doin it dabbers. Though I have never had trouble undoin em....doin em ooop however oi have to implement some cunning.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
<!--quoteo(post=243466:date=Sat 26th May 2012, 10:05 PM:name=dablik)-->QUOTE(dablik @ Sat 26th May 2012, 10:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Okay i know this is gonna sound stupid,, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,did'nt someone stick a <!--coloro:#FF0000--><!--/coloro-->broom handle <!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc-->or a piece of copper pipe to hold the cartridge still [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
yes i did this yesterday and it worked just fine.
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir,
forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector," NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel
CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 20
07 on a dyno run it made
79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
<!--quoteo(post=243509:date=Sun 27th May 2012, 01:32 PM:name=wicklamulla)-->QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Sun 27th May 2012, 01:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->yes i did this yesterday and it worked just fine.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Wicky, what size was the tool you used fer removing the bolt ? Or is a mk2 bolt different to the mk1 wan. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]
<!--quoteo(post=243520:date=Sun 27th May 2012, 04:10 PM:name=Studley Ramrod)-->QUOTE(Studley Ramrod @ Sun 27th May 2012, 04:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Wicky, what size was the tool you used fer removing the bolt ? Or is a mk2 bolt different to the mk1 wan. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Ian, i have socket type allen keys which are further lengthened by adding an adaptor thingy which 'steps down' (A REDUCER????) the sizing so they fit my ratchet. I can take a photo if you need it. the length of wooden broom handle i use is rounded off so it provides enough contact/friction when pressed down on top the damper thingy, then i use the allen key to loosen the allen bolt. Easy to do if ya put the broom handle down into the fork and then invert it and press down on the broom handle using yer body weight and then undo the bolt......mind you if it's uber toight you may struggle.
ps. i dunno if the MKI setup is the same as my mk2.
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir,
forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector," NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel
CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 20
07 on a dyno run it made
79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
T'were fer Maximus I were asking Wick. Thankyou very muchly [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
I managed to undo/refit the mk1 bolts relatively easy with a leccy drill, whilst squishing the forks with the spring still in and forks full of oil. Far easier than separating the forks which were a fookin' mare.
Photos reinstalled from gallery bodge back into initial post.
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Good move but you "missed out" on the pickled onion water Thomas. Oi can send thee a <i>wee sample</i> so you don't feel left oot. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
![[Image: 6200550771_465f791431_b.jpg]](http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6164/6200550771_465f791431_b.jpg)
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orry:
 Sorted and on the Road Mick 
 
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