900 Air Box Mod....fantastic!

[iand1947]

<!--quoteo(post=18374:date=Fri 6th Oct 2006, 03:22 AM:name=Sparra)-->QUOTE(Sparra @ Fri 6th Oct 2006, 03:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Way south...land down under...Australia!<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Not working behind a bar????

[adibabi]

<!--quoteo-->QUOTE<!--quotec-->I did option two some months back, only a pair of long nose pliers required, no parts or plastic's to remove either, by far the easiest way to do it.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


I must agree. a pair of long nose pliers, a m6 or m5 screw and a bung to block of the tube is all you need to do option 2. Its realy easy. Some of you will have a spare bung after fitting your scott oiler. I user the screw to blank the pipe of, it was very neet and tidy.

Does anyone have a power comander map for my 900 running on remus evolution pipes, standard air filter and c02 sensor still fitted. I cant bloody find one any where.

[Stunts]

Did option one of the airbox mod last night. As I have become proficient in removing the various front panels it only took me 15 minutes! Disconnected the pipe from the airbox and used a lightweight number plate bolt to seal the pipe. Easy squeezy. Results are well worth the effort - feels more like a carb'd bike now.

[baron]

<!--quoteo(post=18345:date=Thu 5th Oct 2006, 08:20 PM:name=AJ_Blizzard)-->QUOTE(AJ_Blizzard @ Thu 5th Oct 2006, 08:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Yeah, right...

I did the modification today - method #2... Worked fine after I found a long nose pliers to replace the hose after I blocked it.

Due to heavy rain this afternoon I didn't go for a testride. Maybe tomorrow if the rain stops.

Just one question about this air box mod; have any of you experienced any kind of drawbacks afterwards...?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
No drawbacks at all, only happiness and joyful motoring! ........well, I have been sampling a little veno collapso

<!--quoteo(post=18277:date=Thu 5th Oct 2006, 08:45 AM:name=JBX)-->QUOTE(JBX @ Thu 5th Oct 2006, 08:45 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Thanx guys

BTW all those who did this mod must send me US$10 000. <!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Do yer take Paypal ?

[baron]

<!--quoteo(post=18274:date=Thu 5th Oct 2006, 08:29 AM:name=Firestorm)-->QUOTE(Firestorm @ Thu 5th Oct 2006, 08:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->And not to mentioned tat u need not to pay for anything!!!

Btw do i need to blank off the Flap Actuator after removind the hose?

thks. <!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
No need to blank off the flap actuator for the mod to work, though I did just to ensure moisture didn't get in there and rust it up should there ever be a need to reconnect it again in the future.

[Guest]

Just done option 2 on mine - have to say it does what it says on the tin....Felt like a different bike

[AJ_Blizzard]

<!--quoteo(post=18371:date=Fri 6th Oct 2006, 02:22 AM:name=Firestorm)-->QUOTE(Firestorm @ Fri 6th Oct 2006, 02:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Blizzard, do update us after u r done with the test ride in regard of the 'drawbacks' if any...

thks ya! <!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Took her out for a ride today and the difference is significant! The bike's a lot smoother between 2000 rpm and 4000 rpm and I think that I can hear a tougher sound from the engine as well
The jerkiness is gone at low revs and there's a quicker and more even throttle response from 2000 rpm.

No starting problems, no idle problems, no nothing, really. This seems to be a mod that's working without drawbacks of any kind.

[irichards]

Right all this sounds good enough for me. Roll on next weekend
Has anyone mixed this with a PCIII?

[dandywarhol]

Yep.......and I didn't notice anything better (or worse), just a nice induction note

[Peter Ertl]

Did method 2 today. I made a grub screw from an M4 bolt to block the pipe before putting it back on. That way I should be able to reverse it out easily to unblock it, should the need arise.

Certainly feels a lot nicer below 4000!

Thanks for the idea.

[amarko5]

<!--quoteo(post=18641:date=Sun 8th Oct 2006, 08:45 PM:name=Doc)-->QUOTE(Doc @ Sun 8th Oct 2006, 08:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Did method 2 today. I made a grub screw from an M4 bolt to block the pipe before putting it back on. That way I should be able to reverse it out easily to unblock it, should the need arise.

Certainly feels a lot nicer below 4000!

Thanks for the idea.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

as long as your modified m4 bolt, don't get sucked along the tube and into the cylinders


i used a brass screw with a very large head and also tie wrapped it in the pipe.

[Firestorm]

hoped tat mr. JBX will have more good stuff for us (as so he will be a millionaire sooner)

thks again (do u take cashier order???)

[Peter Ertl]

<!--quoteo(post=18648:date=Mon 9th Oct 2006, 01:00 AM:name=amarko5)-->QUOTE(amarko5 @ Mon 9th Oct 2006, 01:00 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->as long as your modified m4 bolt, don't get sucked along the tube and into the cylinders
i used a brass screw with a very large head and also tie wrapped it in the pipe.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Shouldn't be a problem - there's a nice tight metal tube in the way. Mind you, I didn't actually check how wide it was.....

Where did I put those pliers?

[baron]

<!--quoteo(post=18757:date=Mon 9th Oct 2006, 09:11 PM:name=Doc)-->QUOTE(Doc @ Mon 9th Oct 2006, 09:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Shouldn't be a problem - there's a nice tight metal tube in the way. Mind you, I didn't actually check how wide it was.....<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
......I like a nice tight tube

[Peter Ertl]

<!--quoteo(post=18759:date=Mon 9th Oct 2006, 09:21 PM:name=Baron)-->QUOTE(Baron @ Mon 9th Oct 2006, 09:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->......I like a nice tight tube <!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->



Keep it clean! At least you didn't pic up on amarko5's comment

<!--quoteo(post=18648:date=Mon 9th Oct 2006, 01:00 AM:name=amarko5)-->QUOTE(amarko5 @ Mon 9th Oct 2006, 01:00 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->... a screw with a very large head... .<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Back to the mod - not that I was worried, but I just checked, and the inlet pipe (no dodgy connotations I hope) is way too small to (searches for unambiguous word) admit an M4 bolt.

Phew.

[jbx]

<!--quoteo(post=18542:date=Sat 7th Oct 2006, 09:36 PM:name=AJ_Blizzard)-->QUOTE(AJ_Blizzard @ Sat 7th Oct 2006, 09:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Took her out for a ride today and the difference is significant! The bike's a lot smoother between 2000 rpm and 4000 rpm and I think that I can hear a tougher sound from the engine as well
The jerkiness is gone at low revs and there's a quicker and more even throttle response from 2000 rpm.

No starting problems, no idle problems, no nothing, really. This seems to be a mod that's working without drawbacks of any kind.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I did the mod four years ago without any drawdack since.

You may experience some trouble only if the hose is not well obturated.

Did anybody plug the hose on the other injector body ?
This may give a sort of balance between the two depressions.
I remember my YPVS350 had a large hose between the two intake ducts...

[duibhceK]

<!--quoteo(post=18883:date=Wed 11th Oct 2006, 12:31 AM:name=JBX)-->QUOTE(JBX @ Wed 11th Oct 2006, 12:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I did the mod four years ago without any drawdack since.

You may experience some trouble only if the hose is not well obturated.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I noticed that. The plug I used previously seemed to pass some air ( ) on occasion resulting in the bike seemingly running with an underpowered C2. After some searching it turned out the CO settings of C2 reset to -128 whenever false air was sucked through the hose.

I now found the perfect plug. With the topic on Givi freebie rubber plugs I remembered I had some lying around somewhere and they are the perfect fit.

[dandywarhol]

<!--quoteo(post=18895:date=Wed 11th Oct 2006, 09:52 AM:name=duibhce Kaelann)-->QUOTE(duibhce Kaelann @ Wed 11th Oct 2006, 09:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I noticed that. The plug I used previously seemed to pass some air ( ) on occasion resulting in the bike seemingly running with an underpowered C2.<!--coloro:#FF0000--><!--/coloro--> After some searching it turned out the CO settings of C2 reset to -128 whenever false air was sucked through the hose.<!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc-->
I now found the perfect plug. With the topic on Givi freebie rubber plugs I remembered I had some lying around somewhere and they are the perfect fit.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
You mean it set by itself???????

[duibhceK]

<!--quoteo(post=18955:date=Wed 11th Oct 2006, 11:51 PM:name=dandywarhol)-->QUOTE(dandywarhol @ Wed 11th Oct 2006, 11:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->You mean it set by itself???????<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

yes it did.
I would reset it to the 20 it was on before, start the bike and it would set itself back at -128.

[dandywarhol]

I don't understand that........ means that it would always be changing to compensate for some change in the induction system.......hmmmmmm