<!--quoteo(post=72346:date=Wed 27th Feb 2008, 09:35 AM:name=toddy)-->QUOTE(toddy @ Wed 27th Feb 2008, 09:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->From my limited understanding, you're right in saying that it would be pointless putting the sensor probe after the cats. When I got mine done I undid the access bolts between the headers and the cats and put the probe in the hole. It appears that there is such a variation in everyoneâs final settings that a proper reading needs to be done. The readings between the left and right donât necessarily match up either...<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
my TDM and my mates TDM are 2003 models and it can be seen in the workshop manual two take off points on the exhaust down pipes for the CO readings to be measured from but neither of our bikes have them? so where is it measured from.
Any body out ther know of a yamaha tech that can explain!!!!!!!!!!
<!--quoteo(post=72393:date=Wed 27th Feb 2008, 06:35 PM:name=v-tec)-->QUOTE(v-tec @ Wed 27th Feb 2008, 06:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->my TDM and my mates TDM are 2003 models and it can be seen in the workshop manual two take off points on the exhaust down pipes for the CO readings to be measured from but neither of our bikes have them? so where is it measured from.
Any body out ther know of a yamaha tech that can explain!!!!!!!!!!<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Just checked mine and they where c1=1,c2=-124, that is a big difference so have set them to c1=1,c2=6.
<!--quoteo(post=103319:date=Mon 17th Nov 2008, 09:05 PM:name=Paddy900)-->QUOTE(Paddy900 @ Mon 17th Nov 2008, 09:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Allan i think that when you sorted mine it was C1-10 C2-10
Beside the beach in Castlegregory [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
<!--quoteo(post=103319:date=Mon 17th Nov 2008, 09:05 PM:name=Paddy900)-->QUOTE(Paddy900 @ Mon 17th Nov 2008, 09:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Allan i think that when you sorted mine it was C1-10 C2-10
Beside the beach in Castlegregory [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Hello all,
i am not a regular poster on this forum (more a reader), but now I have a question I need some help with.
I have a TDM900 from november 2004. Last year I did the airbox mod (the simple version) and put in a K&N filter.
Had some nice results, and it the bike made more growling sound. It was not enough for me and last week I bought myself a 2 in 2 Leovince silencers.(no db killer)
My god!!! what sound!!!!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yeahyeahyeah.gif[/img] can"t explain how good that sounds... But now some time"s I hear a exploding sound when I turn back the trottle.(a real little bang)
What I read on the net, is with a carb bike, it can be caused by a to lean mixture. I this also possible with a 900 (k&n and Leovince ).
If yes, can the change of the CO numbers be the solution for this.
In 3 weeks the bike is up for its 20000 km service, and the is also a dyno there. So I want to make a test run on it, and see what bike will produce.
When it is to lean, i hope i can change it with the dash buttons. Is this possible, or need I a power commander/rapid bike.
It isn't always lean which makes the bangs - mine pops and crackles on the overrun too but only when on "choke" and cold - and it's rich then...........
Mine bangs and pops all the time. I've made a note of the CO levels but wouldn't go messing without a way of measuring the actual CO levels at the exhaust.
When the MOT comes round I may see if the guy can test and tune it for a small fee in his sky rocket [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]
I did the airbox mod yesterday - option 2, and it seems to make a slight difference, mainly when shutting off the throttle below 4000rpm. It seems the tickover may be a bit less smooth.
Also I have noticed (before I did the mod) one of the exhaust pipes (C2) has blued far more than the other. I have read a number of forum entries regarding pipes getting hot and wondered if adjusting the CO might affect this. Has anybody else had this problem? Are my CO figures for the cylinders likely to be very different?
<!--quoteo(post=40541:date=Mon 14th May 2007, 04:50 AM:name=torbay)-->QUOTE(torbay @ Mon 14th May 2007, 04:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Well I read this before I signed up for the forum, and have just tinkered with mine....the stock settings were 0 and 0 meaning that the main dealer it was purchased from had never set it up properly ????? or <b>does it loose the setting with no battery in the bike????</b> any way played around and took the lumpyness out of the tickover and wait and see what happens when I ride it !!! ( 10 and 10). This would also explain why one header pipe looks on the verge of melting i would imagine.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
No ! it should keep settings with battery disconnected. The only thing that resets is both your trip meters.
My settings are C1=14 C2=16. Nearly up to 10 000km on the clock & the header pipes are still identical in colour, a nice bronze so not running too hot(lean) me thinks.
If they were blue I'd be inclined to increase fuel to air ratio.
I ride her pretty fast, two up mostly & still get 60mpg on average. runs as smooth as silk after the airbox mod' [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/drinks.gif[/img]
<b><!--sizeo:4--><!--/sizeo--><!--fonto:Comic Sans MS--><!--/fonto-->cheers, Shane from Tassie<!--fontc-->
<!--/fontc--><!--sizec--><!--/sizec--></b>
<!--sizeo:2--><!--/sizeo-->Airbox Mod ( JBX ), Krauser K-wing mount & Top Box, <b>TDM Shield a.k.a TigerScreen Mk 2</b>, HyperPro progressive rate fork springs, BeoWulf - Warrior exhausts,
Stebel Compact Nautilus Air-Horn with Eastern Beaver relay kit, Eastern Beaver PC-8 switched fusebox, Powerlet BMW style power socket
plus controller & heated gloves for the missus. Oxford v7 Heated Grips, V-Strom 650 HandGuards, Fenda extenda.<!--sizec--><!--/sizec-->
Welll,
finaly got my bike back from the mechanic. There was a problem with the delivery of the chain and sprocket.
My bike was on the dyno, looked pretty good but it was very lean when it was a cruising speed. Accelerating and full trot le no problems
They advised me in the future a rapid bike module. Still thinking of it. (470 euro's [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] )
At home I increased the the co numbers. It was c1 3 and c2 15. I put them at 8 and 20.
Oh the numbers of the runs: run1 56.9 kw/h at 7048 rpm (76.27 hp) and 83 nm at 5546 rpm
run2 58.2 kw/h at 7247 rpm(78.02 hp) and 85 nm at 5333 rpm
(mods done: k&n filter, airbox mod and leovince exhaust)
I like the numbers, especially the torque, what are your numbers??
My CO numbers came set at 8 and 8. I've nipped them up to 12 and 12, but haven't test ridden yet... too hungover and it was raining [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/puke.gif[/img]
My pipes aren't coloured evenly, C1 has a lot more colour, with only 1500kms on the clock they might even up yet. Checked the temperatures of the pipes and the ports, at the head, and there was only 1-2 degrees C difference. The difference in colour may just be due to a slight variation in the thickness of the pipe's wall.
I've done the airbox mod which has transformed the low speed throttle response. My CO settings are C1=12 C2=14.
Whilst every bike is different the C1=3 and C2=15 quoted by Ouzo seem at little way off the mark. From all of the posts that I've read the difference between the two values is rarely more than 5 apart.
Ouzo try C1=10 and C2=15 as a start point, revert to ASISif it doesn't feel any better.
The best option is to get your friendly MOT station to check your O2 settings for you.
<!--quoteo(post=124772:date=Wed 3rd Jun 2009, 06:20 PM:name=AzzA)-->QUOTE(AzzA @ Wed 3rd Jun 2009, 06:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->My CO numbers came set at 8 and 8. I've nipped them up to 12 and 12, but haven't test ridden yet... too hungover and it was raining [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/puke.gif[/img]
My pipes aren't coloured evenly, C1 has a lot more colour, with only 1500kms on the clock they might even up yet. Checked the temperatures of the pipes and the ports, at the head, and there was only 1-2 degrees C difference. The difference in colour may just be due to a slight variation in the thickness of the pipe's wall.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Well, I got out on the roads again and it was... good. Response was smoother, torque was constant. It definitely pulled better out of low rev's without having to gear down. I was quite happy with it. Although it did take a bit extra cranking on one restart. Pulled over, into diag mode, co mode, drop settings to 10 and 10, ride on. Result, hmmmm, not quite as good as it was... but it was getting dark and starting to rain, so a more subjective test is needed. I may even try to reach the point of too rich, just for reference, and also try variances between cylinders, to test the current balance.
I'm liking this new fangled digital tuning, it's so easy to make incremental changes and then return things to exactly where they were. If only banks of multiple carburettors had been so simple.
<!--quoteo(post=5965:date=Wed 24th May 2006, 07:20 PM:name=Guinness)-->QUOTE(Guinness @ Wed 24th May 2006, 07:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->taken from http://www.factorypro.com/tech/FI-Tuning_TDM900.html<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
OOOOHHH buttons buttons buttons, I can have a right old fiddle. Even if my bike runs great, I am positive I will have to stick my nose in lol.
I've just been to the local friendly MoT station to have a look at the CO on my 900. My downpipes were both very blue (indicating running lean?) The settings were c1=2, c2=12. The CO readings were way off 3.5%, C1 was very rich and c2 was lean. To get anything like the 3.5% I had to set C1 to -40 and C2 to +50!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img] This goes against what I have read on here but this was using a calibrated gas analyser. The bike seemed to run a lot smoother afterwards - I was expecting a lot worse given the difference in the units I had set but I haven't had chance to assess fuel consumption yet.
What I learned from playing with the settings was that messing about with = or - 2 units at a time had very little effect on the CO and I had to make large changes, 10 or so at a time, before any effect would take place on the CO readout. I was on their machine a good 25 minutes or so. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]
Just bought a K&N, will go back and try again when it's fitted. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yahoo.gif[/img]
I would say that unless you can play with the values whilst on a gas analyser, you are wasting your time. The local large dealership to me was no help, they don't have a way of measuring CO. They didn't know about the CO mod through the buttons.
PS: even with CO set to 3.5% on both, the lambdas were both about 1.2, indicating a very lean mixture. Anyone any comments? Bike is in excellent condition with no air leaks or misfires. I'll report back futher when I've played with it some more.
(Lambda of 1.00 indicates mixture is 14.7:1 - anything more than 1 is lean, less than 1 is rich)
<!--quoteo(post=216085:date=Thu 28th Jul 2011, 06:47 AM:name=strikemaster)-->QUOTE(strikemaster @ Thu 28th Jul 2011, 06:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I've just been to the local friendly MoT station to have a look at the CO on my 900. My downpipes were both very blue (indicating running lean?) The settings were c1=2, c2=12. The CO readings were way off 3.5%, C1 was very rich and c2 was lean. To get anything like the 3.5% I had to set C1 to -40 and C2 to +50!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img] This goes against what I have read on here but this was using a calibrated gas analyser. The bike seemed to run a lot smoother afterwards - I was expecting a lot worse given the difference in the units I had set but I haven't had chance to assess fuel consumption yet.
What I learned from playing with the settings was that messing about with = or - 2 units at a time had very little effect on the CO and I had to make large changes, 10 or so at a time, before any effect would take place on the CO readout. I was on their machine a good 25 minutes or so. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]
Just bought a K&N, will go back and try again when it's fitted. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/yahoo.gif[/img]
I would say that unless you can play with the values whilst on a gas analyser, you are wasting your time. The local large dealership to me was no help, they don't have a way of measuring CO. They didn't know about the CO mod through the buttons.
PS: even with CO set to 3.5% on both, the lambdas were both about 1.2, indicating a very lean mixture. Anyone any comments? Bike is in excellent condition with no air leaks or misfires. I'll report back futher when I've played with it some more.
(Lambda of 1.00 indicates mixture is 14.7:1 - anything more than 1 is lean, less than 1 is rich)<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Thats a good report and very interesting. That wide variation between cylinders is perhaps a sign of something else not being as it should be? I am wondering if the throttle bodies have been balanced in the past by someone who has used the wrong method to set them leaving them way out of whack as the the figures seem to show, just a thought.
cheers Graeme
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