Hey all. Sorry to sound like a broken record, but have completed airbox option 1 today and the difference is truly fabulous. I only bought the bike last week (2008 demo) and was happy but now estatic. Accelerating and backing off are both far smoother. THANKS JBX !!
Only query I have now is the bike stalling for no apparent reason at low revs. Only happened twice so far but both on roundabouts - dangerous.
Again, for anyone thinking of the airbox mod - just Do It !
<!--sizeo:4--><!--/sizeo-->TDM2340<!--sizec--><!--/sizec-->
Black 2008 mod, Ventura rack/bag, tall screen, bar risers, Suzi h/guards, JBX airbox mod 1
Bought new 2009 model. Not happy with low RPM throttle. Conducted mod at 422kms. Knew it was the right thing to have done by 424kms, confirmed even more after 170km ride into major metro area on a wet day.
It really made that much of a difference.
Almost no jerky/snatchy throttle. Bike will now run at 12km/hr, previously 15, which is still not great... but it is still running in. (If this persists, will consider smaller rear sprocket.)
Used method #2 on JBX.
Using a very long pair of long-nosed pliers, I removed the hose to the right throttle body. I then inserted a M5 x 5mm stainless-steel grub-screw into the hose, and screwed it about 25mm up the hose with an Allen key. I then re-attached the hose to the throttle body. (An M4 grub-screw may have worked, but it might have let some air past.)
Whole process took less than 10 minutes, set-up to clean-up. And it can be reversed to stock/standard in the same time, should you not want your dealer/mechanic to know.
Bloody brilliant!
Thank you to all those who went before and bothered to tell.
Did it a week ago, wanted to give it a spin, before writing - it's brilliant!
Thanks JBX and whoever else had anything to do with it! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
I did option 1, which could be much easier, if I wouldn't try to lift the tank forward [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/istupid.gif[/img]
it took me awhile to get it right [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
I also enriched both cylinders about 10 points through the "CO Mode", adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable, and tweaked the clutch lever (for ease of use), all this made for a much improved experience.
<!--quoteo(post=123798:date=Tue 26th May 2009, 04:07 AM:name=AzzA)-->QUOTE(AzzA @ Tue 26th May 2009, 04:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Bought new 2009 model. Not happy with low RPM throttle. Conducted mod at 422kms. Knew it was the right thing to have done by 424kms, confirmed even more after 170km ride into major metro area on a wet day.
It really made that much of a difference.
Almost no jerky/snatchy throttle. Bike will now run at 12km/hr, previously 15, which is still not great... but it is still running in. (If this persists, will consider smaller rear sprocket.)
Used method #2 on JBX.
Using a very long pair of long-nosed pliers, I removed the hose to the right throttle body. I then inserted a M5 x 5mm stainless-steel grub-screw into the hose, and screwed it about 25mm up the hose with an Allen key. I then re-attached the hose to the throttle body. (An M4 grub-screw may have worked, but it might have let some air past.)
Whole process took less than 10 minutes, set-up to clean-up. And it can be reversed to stock/standard in the same time, should you not want your dealer/mechanic to know.
Bloody brilliant!
Thank you to all those who went before and bothered to tell.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
<!--quoteo(post=126971:date=Mon 22nd Jun 2009, 01:54 PM:name=AzzA)-->QUOTE(AzzA @ Mon 22nd Jun 2009, 01:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Just an update on my experience:
I also enriched both cylinders about 10 points through the "CO Mode", adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable, and tweaked the clutch lever (for ease of use), all this made for a much improved experience.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Hi there, I also did this and then put aftermarket cans and a Dynojet Power Commander and the difference was terrific.....changing the cans made a huge difference and the PC smoothed everything out.
I've been thinking of getting a Power Commander for my 900, but still trying to convince myself it's worth the cost.
I have done the air box mod (everything else is standard). Do I need to revert the airbox mod, or will it make any difference if I go ahead with the Power Commander?
<!--quoteo(post=127732:date=Tue 30th Jun 2009, 12:58 PM:name=TANDEM)-->QUOTE(TANDEM @ Tue 30th Jun 2009, 12:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I've been thinking of getting a Power Commander for my 900, but still trying to convince myself it's worth the cost.
I have done the air box mod (everything else is standard). Do I need to revert the airbox mod, or will it make any difference if I go ahead with the Power Commander?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I would do the PC (Power Commander) if you have changed the cans for aftermarke ones.
The stock cans house the catalysators and are darn heavy.
I used Carbon Cans (but they were Aluminium..) which were cheap, and sounded great, and they give you a map for the PC with it (Plus you can download lotsa maps and the PC tells you how to program it anyway) and with all this the TDM was fantastic.
And the sound is just like a Ducati. Intoxicating !!!!
And I still got over 13 miles per litre fuel consumption. It is quick to fit - the biggest hassle is lifting the tank to get to the plugs. It is all plug and play and can be reverted back later no problem at all. I never dynoed my bike but I perceive at least a 10% improvement in power, but the low down pull is incredible.
By the way the new PC has an optinal accessory to let you load 2 maps.
Then when you change your tires fit Michelin Pilot Road 2 tyres and it will drill any sports bike in the twisties. The only next thing it needs is MAYBE an Ohlins back shock.
<!--quoteo(post=128503:date=Thu 9th Jul 2009, 04:46 PM:name=DevoTDM)-->QUOTE(DevoTDM @ Thu 9th Jul 2009, 04:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I was going to suggest the STI unit raather than the power commander but Azza has commented on it in the Snatch Throttle thread.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I don't have any personal experience with the STI unit (also goes by another name out of the States) but it comes in cheaper than the PC and is simpler (no real need for a dyno, unlike the PC unless your exact setup has been reliably&repeatedly mapped&published before). I've heard of more than a few failures of the PC's, the KISS principle and the price make the STI attractive... but, following my tweaks (as posted above), I don't feel the need for one now.
I got my bike back, had an extended month long stay at the stealers after new tyres (PR2's), and I was really stunned by how well it behaved on the throttle. The snatch was gone, nice smooth torque curve... one might say, "carbie like"... I was so use to being jerked on take-off that it had tainted my expectation of how the bike was going to behave. I was nicely disappointed of my expectation. :-)
As for the first impressions of the new pair of PR2's: they turn in faster/swifter than the Dunlop Sportmax that had been fitted from new, they practically drop into corners by comparison. I can see why PR2's aren't liked by sportsbike riders; they'd make for a very twitchy bike with highly strung geometry. Very much at home on the TDM though.
<!--quoteo(post=128510:date=Thu 9th Jul 2009, 09:08 AM:name=AzzA)-->QUOTE(AzzA @ Thu 9th Jul 2009, 09:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I don't have any personal experience with the STI unit (also goes by another name out of the States) but it comes in cheaper than the PC and is simpler (no real need for a dyno, unlike the PC unless your exact setup has been reliably&repeatedly mapped&published before). I've heard of more than a few failures of the PC's, the KISS principle and the price make the STI attractive... but, following my tweaks (as posted above), I don't feel the need for one now.
I got my bike back, had an extended month long stay at the stealers after new tyres (PR2's), and I was really stunned by how well it behaved on the throttle. The snatch was gone, nice smooth torque curve... one might say, "carbie like"... I was so use to being jerked on take-off that it had tainted my expectation of how the bike was going to behave. I was nicely disappointed of my expectation. :-)
As for the first impressions of the new pair of PR2's: they turn in faster/swifter than the Dunlop Sportmax that had been fitted from new, they practically drop into corners by comparison. I can see why PR2's aren't liked by sportsbike riders; they'd make for a very twitchy bike with highly strung geometry. Very much at home on the TDM though.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Can you give me a bit more on the STI system - I would like to research them. Can a TDM efi system be re-programmed for a 360 degree firing order?
<!--quoteo(post=128518:date=Thu 9th Jul 2009, 06:55 PM:name=Peter Watts)-->QUOTE(Peter Watts @ Thu 9th Jul 2009, 06:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Can you give me a bit more on the STI system - I would like to research them. Can a TDM efi system be re-programmed for a 360 degree firing order?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Oops... it is SFI not STI... whose idea was it to change the name. LOL
Just done the airbox mod (Opt.1 in the "how to...")
Having read most of this thread I was expecting a difference, but not quite as much as experienced.
Changes the way the bike is in the lower rev's. Is going to make filtering to the Blackwall Tunnel SO much easier, as I'll be able to hold gear's longer.
Understand why Yam put this in, but shame they had to, makes it a different bike!!
Highly recommended!
MY06 TDM 900 Blue
over Silver
----- Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
----- MY04 TDM 900 Blue
over Silver Parts Bin MY02 TDM 900 Yellow
over Black RIP ............
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