But my Bird benefitted from an oil & filter, coolant, brake & clutch fluid change.
Fitted bar risers with new preload adapters & new fork springs with fresh oil. Well the r/h leg got fresh oil. The head on the socket cap screw (allen head) seems to be mullered on the l/h leg. So am unable to replace what looks like ATF in that leg.
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Not to sure how to proceed with getting this out.
Ideas please.
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Hope it's okay putting this in this thread. If not I'm sure it will magically disappear.
Now I just fly everywhere.
Be yourself, because everybody else is taken.
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Gone to new owner.
Black Mk2a
PipeWerx Exhaust, Gold Spots, Goodridge Hoses, Scottoiler,Oil Pressure Indicator, Nippy Normans fuze box,Touratech Handguards,Oxford Heated Grips, Power Socket, Hard Wiring for Sat Nav, Gear Indicator built into the rev counter. Givi E50 Top box & E21 side cases, Bagster Tank Cover & Bag.
Will check in the morrow when I have round 2 with it :putemup:Â . Can't remember off the top of my head if it's 5 or 6mm.
Wondering if I can get a hex head key on it & then my battery powered rattle gun :dunno:Â .
Failing that I have some extractors but I wont be to good drilling into said bolt. Always seems to go pear shaped.
Now I just fly everywhere.
Be yourself, because everybody else is taken.
Â
Gone to new owner.
Black Mk2a
PipeWerx Exhaust, Gold Spots, Goodridge Hoses, Scottoiler,Oil Pressure Indicator, Nippy Normans fuze box,Touratech Handguards,Oxford Heated Grips, Power Socket, Hard Wiring for Sat Nav, Gear Indicator built into the rev counter. Givi E50 Top box & E21 side cases, Bagster Tank Cover & Bag.
I just thought if it was an allen head it might be deep enough to get an extractor in without drilling.....failing that, try tapping the head around, with a sharp chisel on the outer edge of the head , that sometimes works
Unfortunately the bolt is recessed in the leg, so don't think that's an option.
I suppose if all else fails I can try & drill the head off & remove the damper rod.
Now I just fly everywhere.
Be yourself, because everybody else is taken.
Â
Gone to new owner.
Black Mk2a
PipeWerx Exhaust, Gold Spots, Goodridge Hoses, Scottoiler,Oil Pressure Indicator, Nippy Normans fuze box,Touratech Handguards,Oxford Heated Grips, Power Socket, Hard Wiring for Sat Nav, Gear Indicator built into the rev counter. Givi E50 Top box & E21 side cases, Bagster Tank Cover & Bag.
Quote:Should be the most reliable thing on yer GS now! :good:
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 -  Thirty thousand miles with nothing changed except oil & tyres .........if we exclude the replacement crash bar, head cover, clutch lever, & switch - but that was my faultÂ
Quote:No uphill from there! straight through the bottom of the fork base, it holds the damper rod in!
Correct. I did try to give it a quick tweak to tighten before attempting to remove. Couldn't get a decent photo of the offending bolt.
Rattle gun failed. Tried smacking a torq or larger hex head bit head into it, to no avail. Hole is not big enough to whack a socket onto it.
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Wont be able to have round 3 until 26th due to work commitments.
At which point I'll be breaking out the drill.
Now I just fly everywhere.
Be yourself, because everybody else is taken.
Â
Gone to new owner.
Black Mk2a
PipeWerx Exhaust, Gold Spots, Goodridge Hoses, Scottoiler,Oil Pressure Indicator, Nippy Normans fuze box,Touratech Handguards,Oxford Heated Grips, Power Socket, Hard Wiring for Sat Nav, Gear Indicator built into the rev counter. Givi E50 Top box & E21 side cases, Bagster Tank Cover & Bag.
If it isn't totally chewed up?....another option is use a slightly over sized Torxs bit and hammer it in using an extension, then try your luck? I have had a resonable success rate with this technique :good: But not a 100%
Don't get confused between my personality
and my attitude. My personality is who I am,
my attitude depends on who YOU are!
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Skinny people are easy to kidnap.....Stay safe and eat cake!!!!!
Quote:If it isn't totally chewed up?....another option is use a slightly over sized Torxs bit and hammer it in using an extension, then try your luck? I have had a resonable success rate with this technique :good: But not a 100%
 jono don't think the holes big enough for a bar and socket, think I used a long allen key
Any room to go in with a welder ? Have in the past cleaned up a hex key and managed to give it a touch with mig wire.....enough to keep it locked to turn it.
I had hoped to get a small 1/4 drive socket (I think it was 11 or 12mm) whacked on to it, but the size required is to big to get into it.
I did try with a Torq head bit on a small 1/4 socket & extension bar but had no joy. Resigned myself to drilling head off I think.Â
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Yes I could remove the leg & up end it to drain the oil. But I would still have to address the problem, so may as well just get on with it.
You can just about see the head of the bolt looking through the hole for the axle. Wouldn't think it would be cost effective to get someone to mig weld a hex key onto it.
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Charging drill tonight & hopefully as the nights are drawing out a bit I may be able to do it in 1/2 hr stints over the next couple of nights. I will endeavour to take a decent photo so all will become clear.
Once the head is drilled off, hopefully I can unscrew the stud off the damper rod.
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Appreciate the input guys.Â
Now I just fly everywhere.
Be yourself, because everybody else is taken.
Â
Gone to new owner.
Black Mk2a
PipeWerx Exhaust, Gold Spots, Goodridge Hoses, Scottoiler,Oil Pressure Indicator, Nippy Normans fuze box,Touratech Handguards,Oxford Heated Grips, Power Socket, Hard Wiring for Sat Nav, Gear Indicator built into the rev counter. Givi E50 Top box & E21 side cases, Bagster Tank Cover & Bag.
 -  Thirty thousand miles with nothing changed except oil & tyres .........if we exclude the replacement crash bar, head cover, clutch lever, & switch - but that was my fault 
