A few pics to go with the above threads.
Using your fantastic Abba stand B) (Beany), get it oooop in the air and remove all the dohickey and jobbywobblers as specified in the Haynes manual (section 6). Forks, steering stem etc.
![[Image: post-2-1145487479.jpg]](http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/uploads/post-2-1145487479.jpg)
I decided to support the bars from the roof rather than remove all the cables or let it rest and stress the cables.
![[Image: post-2-1145487631.jpg]](http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/uploads/post-2-1145487631.jpg)
You won't see a smile on the face of this race!
![[Image: post-2-1145487730.jpg]](http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/uploads/post-2-1145487730.jpg)
As mentioned by Stink-Feet, the old races are a real burger to remove if attempting to use the Haynes method (see p 6.18 illustration 9.4)...two problems.....you are resting on one of the races whilst trying to remove the other....not overly clever....and also the indents left for driving the race off are tiny (as seen in pic below). After offering everything up using the Haynes method it just WAS NOT going to work.....so I placed a pry bar face on the lip of the old race (from below for the lower race) and then passed a large socket (30/31mm) with bar through the stem to use as a drift....but STRAIGHT DOWN onto the face of the pry bar rather than resting on the opposite race as shown in Haynes. Worked a treat....stopping occasionally to move the position of the pry bar and check that its coming out straight. The new races were pressed into position using the drawbolt method in Haynes (p6.18, illuatration 9.6), worked fine.
![[Image: post-2-1145488380.jpg]](http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/uploads/post-2-1145488380.jpg)
Removing the old inner bearing from the steering stem requires a bearing puller......or a similar home made attempt..it is tight (unsurprisingly)! To drive the new bearing on I carefully (hrumph) removed the rollers and cage from the old bearing and used the remains as a perfect sized bearing driver. My axle stand body had the perfect diameter to support to whole shebang while I walloped it good! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]
![[Image: post-2-1145488920.jpg]](http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/uploads/post-2-1145488920.jpg)
Can't remember much else (it was a while ago). I do remember it took me a while to be happy with the setting on bearing tightness on install....but I'm a fussy burger.
Good luck Beany.
Cheers
dapleb
Using your fantastic Abba stand B) (Beany), get it oooop in the air and remove all the dohickey and jobbywobblers as specified in the Haynes manual (section 6). Forks, steering stem etc.
I decided to support the bars from the roof rather than remove all the cables or let it rest and stress the cables.
You won't see a smile on the face of this race!
As mentioned by Stink-Feet, the old races are a real burger to remove if attempting to use the Haynes method (see p 6.18 illustration 9.4)...two problems.....you are resting on one of the races whilst trying to remove the other....not overly clever....and also the indents left for driving the race off are tiny (as seen in pic below). After offering everything up using the Haynes method it just WAS NOT going to work.....so I placed a pry bar face on the lip of the old race (from below for the lower race) and then passed a large socket (30/31mm) with bar through the stem to use as a drift....but STRAIGHT DOWN onto the face of the pry bar rather than resting on the opposite race as shown in Haynes. Worked a treat....stopping occasionally to move the position of the pry bar and check that its coming out straight. The new races were pressed into position using the drawbolt method in Haynes (p6.18, illuatration 9.6), worked fine.
Removing the old inner bearing from the steering stem requires a bearing puller......or a similar home made attempt..it is tight (unsurprisingly)! To drive the new bearing on I carefully (hrumph) removed the rollers and cage from the old bearing and used the remains as a perfect sized bearing driver. My axle stand body had the perfect diameter to support to whole shebang while I walloped it good! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]
Can't remember much else (it was a while ago). I do remember it took me a while to be happy with the setting on bearing tightness on install....but I'm a fussy burger.
Good luck Beany.
Cheers
dapleb
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.