<!--quoteo(post=253382:date=Fri 28th Sep 2012, 00:22 AM:name=rscott4563)-->QUOTE(rscott4563 @ Fri 28th Sep 2012, 00:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->...
AzzA, quick question for you. When setting your up did you just run your bike without the front fairing on so that you had quick access to the pots to tweak the settings as you were on and off the bike (I'm talking about the Yellow, Red & RPM pots).
Was it easy to setup correctly, i.e. could you easily tell when you had the pot at the correct setting because the changes were quite obvious or were the changes much more subtle and difficult to detect when say turning the Red pot from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3?
Cheers, Ryan<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
G'day Ryan,
I did the tuning runs without the left fairing, just make sure you've got all your fasteners secure; you don't want to lose any if they're loose. Stick some tape on them if they are, or take them off, but all mine were fine. It helps if you've got close access to clear open roads, but quiet streets are also good enough because you wont need to go over 60kmh to tell if it's good or bad.
I found no major benefit from having any other settings, other than the recommended settings, on the right three pots... but your bike may be different.
The most critical setting is the left most pot; this is your idle and baseline mixture... it will effect performance off idle and through the mid range... you should be able to clean up the chugs at low RPM and get a smooth cruise at any RPM from 2000RPM upwards. This setting can be done in your driveway by finding the fastest and smoothest idle at around 2000RPM, just take your time, and blip the throttle occasionally to ensure everything stabilises. Bypassing the O2 sensor is the required to get this setting to work; the EFI must be running in open-loop.
AzzA, quick question for you. When setting your up did you just run your bike without the front fairing on so that you had quick access to the pots to tweak the settings as you were on and off the bike (I'm talking about the Yellow, Red & RPM pots).
Was it easy to setup correctly, i.e. could you easily tell when you had the pot at the correct setting because the changes were quite obvious or were the changes much more subtle and difficult to detect when say turning the Red pot from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3?
Cheers, Ryan<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
G'day Ryan,
I did the tuning runs without the left fairing, just make sure you've got all your fasteners secure; you don't want to lose any if they're loose. Stick some tape on them if they are, or take them off, but all mine were fine. It helps if you've got close access to clear open roads, but quiet streets are also good enough because you wont need to go over 60kmh to tell if it's good or bad.
I found no major benefit from having any other settings, other than the recommended settings, on the right three pots... but your bike may be different.
The most critical setting is the left most pot; this is your idle and baseline mixture... it will effect performance off idle and through the mid range... you should be able to clean up the chugs at low RPM and get a smooth cruise at any RPM from 2000RPM upwards. This setting can be done in your driveway by finding the fastest and smoothest idle at around 2000RPM, just take your time, and blip the throttle occasionally to ensure everything stabilises. Bypassing the O2 sensor is the required to get this setting to work; the EFI must be running in open-loop.
![[Image: gallery_10460_302_12664.png]](http://www.carpe-tdm.net/ipb/uploads/gallery/album_302/gallery_10460_302_12664.png)