Quote:Fresh fuel in tank and let the pump flush it through,only a small amount of fuel in the rail might not bother to disconect it.
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I have tried that, but I'm still getting pongy old fuel out of the injectors; I would have thought the fuel would flush through but, perhaps the return only flows when the pressure valve lifts. Dunno.
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Definitely got spark; it'll fire with the throat full of "Start-Ya-Bastard" sprayed in.
There's a relay under the tank, on my 9er it's mounted on the left of the crossbrace near where the rear of the tank mounts. There's a few relays and electric devices there. The one most on the left has a heavy red cable going to the terminals, this can fail, there's a few reports that it breaks at the terminal inside the sheath, as did mine
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The bike would power up but the fuel pump didn't start, maybe it's as simple as that for you too
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I hadn't used my bike for 4 months, and it was fine when I parked it up, but over winter the corrosion ate away at what must have been the last few strands of copper, and then it died when I tried to run it next time.
Looks like it might be the fuel pump; it's blowing the 10 Amp fuse (under the seat). It's unlikely the relay, unless it's totally melted down.
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I've had to put it aside for another day; as I ran out of fuses.
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I'll try it again tomorrow with the fuel pump unplugged. If it doesn't blow the fuse again, the pump is at fault. The ECU will tell me if the relay is working; there's a DIAG mode voltage test for the fuel system (Code 09), the ECU reads after the relay.
Quote: Â Gonna see more of this with water in the fuel.
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I've stripped the tank and am trying to recover the pump assembly. The pump and filter sock appear to be toast; they're so clogged that no end of soaking is helping much.Â
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I've found that throttle body (slash carb) cleaner is best to remove the residue left by the fuel, and strong vinegar is good for the rust.
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The amount of solid crud in the tank was amazing, even though the metal was only lightly surface rusted. Trouble is it's a diabolical combination; because the residue holds the rust in scaley clumps and protects it from the acid/vinegar. You've got to cut through the waxy part before you can get at the rust.
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Yamaha quoted over One Thousand Aussie doll hairs for a new pump assembly; no parts are available as OEM, aftermarket only for parts. One fifth to one sixth the value of the bike in todays market. I can get a new pump for 200-230.
I went to the local stealership and ordered what they use, it was a Quantum kit (just as you linked). It came with a pump (of course) an assortment of filters, one of which more or less fits, and a seal... and some other pieces not relevant to the TDM. A universal kit for dozens of bikes. I now have a 3 inch piece of hose, two hose clamps, and 3 useless filer socks... buggered if I know what use they'll be.
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So the tank's back together and, if I'm lucky, tomorrow it'll be back on the bike and running. Fingers and toes crossed there's no other issues.