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[alanfavell]

Greetings & nicely done.

[chrisbee]

Crackin bike Hadyn, love what you have done to your bike

[drewpy]

I'm lovin' it!

 

good re-model and well thought out

[Catteeclan]

My first TDM was just like that. I've done valve stem seals in the same way on cars but I made a tool to fit the spark plug hole and connect the air line.


Good looking MK1.  :good:  

[StrataMan]

Thanks again to everyone for the pos feedback. When the bike was complete I took it for a test ride and had a rather strange and potentially dangerous experience so I’d like to share it with you all just in case something similar happens to you.

 

I wanted the option of a little off roading so I bought an extra pair of wheels from ebay (Pic 1). I fitted new bearings and a rear tyre but used the original sprocket and carrier as the sprocket was good and I’d just fitted a new bearing and seal to it.

[attachment=o10313]

 

The first 25miles were fine until I took it up to about 60mph on a dual carriageway and then heard a horrendous metallic grinding and squealing from under the bike. I thought the gearbox was going to fall out. Pulled in and checked everything but all seemed fine. Pulled off again and it started again, a heavy clicking/grinding sound but not so bad at the lower speeds so I went to a hill and freewheeled down slowly and found  the noise was coming from the back sprocket carrier and I could move it side-to-side a few millimetres (Pics 2 &3). I limped home and took the rear wheel off to find something very strange. The new oil seal was pushed out towards the chain and the new bearing was now loose in the carrier housing. When it was fitted it was solid.

[attachment=o10314]


After a bit of head scratching I found a 2mm gap behind the sprocket carrier between the cush drive rubbers (#6  in pic 4) and the inner wheel drum.  The inside of the sprocket carrier should fit snug against the face of the cush blocks which should fit snug against the inner wheel drum as  in Pic 4.

[attachment=o10319]


There are little dimples on both sides on these rubber blocks and they had worn pretty bad on the eBay wheel. When the wheel is fitted, the spacer collar (#17) stops this gap from being taken up when tightening the rear spindle nut, so the carrier (#11) can move slightly sideways towards the wheel hub and away from the bearing (#12). With the pulling forces of the chain on and off the throttle, this will put a heavy sideways load on the sprocket carrier resulting in either the carrier wobbling on the outer race of the bearing (as in my case) or collapsing/wearing the bearing prematurely.

 

When I checked the eBay sprocket carrier, it was alot worse and I could lift the bearing out with my finger (pics 5 & 6).

[attachment=o10317][attachment=o10318]


The carrier face should be about flush with the edge of the wheel drum as in Pic 3. Pic 7 shows the carrier fitted with the worn cush blocks and has sunk into the wheel hub a couple of mills.

[attachment=o10315][attachment=o10312]


My conclusion is the eBay wheels must have seen alot of on-off throttle use or abuse to wear these dimples away by 2mm. Checking my original blocks they looked a little worn as well so I still used the blocks from the eBay wheel but shimmed the back of them with 2mm rubber mat. The loose bearing was reseated in my original carrier with a coating of JB Weld and is still solid 400+ miles later.

[dablik]

Well that's a new one on me, cant say i've ever heard of this particular issue cropping up before, i recently put a mk2 sprocket carrier (96) onto the mk1 and found it was quite a loose fit, soon swapped it back..

 

Good detective work Haydan :good:think i'll double check mine though.

 

What were the new clocks you put on the mk1, assume the speedo is digital, unless it's a more expensive gps model

[StrataMan]

Well that's a new one on me, cant say i've ever heard of this particular issue cropping up before, i recently put a mk2 sprocket carrier (96) onto the mk1 and found it was quite a loose fit, soon swapped it back..

 

Good detective work Haydan :good:think i'll double check mine though.

 

What were the new clocks you put on the mk1, assume the speedo is digital, unless it's a more expensive gps model

 

It's a new one on we too. The cush blocks on most bikes don't have these little dimples so are more resistant to wear but I have read on this forum someone having problems with carrier bearings, may be related.

 

The speedo is a Chinese cheapie from eBay at about £25.

[attachment=o10326]

Took a chance and pretty well pleased with it. The fuel gauge is wired to the temperature sender and at normal engine temp it's 3/4 fuel 

[attachment=o10323][attachment=o10324][attachment=o10325]

This one is the lower rev range option with no gear number indicator.

This post was last modified: 05-10-2017, 09:29 PM by StrataMan.

[dablik]

Worth a gamble at £25, if i cant light my oem clocks up adequately i'll go this route, had been looking a gps speedo's but generally silly money for one.

 

Looks like you've fettled the speedo drive to attach the cable, have you attached the magnet to the disc then !! It looks to be a decent size as well for old eyesight.

 

Thanks for posting pics, good to see it all close up and food for thought.

[StrataMan]

 

Looks like you've fettled the speedo drive to attach the cable, have you attached the magnet to the disc then !! It looks to be a decent size as well for old eyesight.

 

Thanks for posting pics, good to see it all close up and food for thought.

 

I retained the original speedo drive as a holder and took the knurled screw piece off the end off the cable, threaded a tapered head screw through it with a lock nut the other side and a bent bracket. The magnet is drilled through one of the disc spokes. I have no worries at all of it affecting the strength of the disc, but that's for each individual to decide. I couldn't get a reading first of all, then tried the pickup the other way around and it worked.

[attachment=o10327]

The magnet is set into an aluminium sleeve and a few of the setups I've seen on the internet show the open side towards the pickup which threw me bit, perhaps my magnet was inserted into the sleeve the other way around?? Have to admit, I'm really pleased with the whole thing.

[attachment=o10328]

As far as size goes, the pickup sensor isn't really that big and it's tucked in behind the fork leg and you have a job to see it in the next pic. Anyway, size doesn't matter...does it?

[attachment=o10329]

This post was last modified: 05-10-2017, 01:54 PM by StrataMan.

[dablik]

Haydan your a gem matey, yep i can see the magnet now in that photo, that's a neat solution, when looking at those types of speedo i had wondered about the best way of fitting to a Tdm, plenty of info on the interweb for other bikes so good to see your method, makes it easier for us novice fettlers

 

Sorry, crossed lines about the size, was writing half asleep after a night shift, i was referring to the actual speedo dash unit being of a size with large enough numbers to see clearly, looks like it lights up well also.

 

Bookmarked for easy reference.. could be a speedo on my xmas list.

[StrataMan]

Sorry, crossed lines about the size, was writing half asleep after a night shift, i was referring to the actual speedo dash unit being of a size with large enough numbers to see clearly, looks like it lights up well also.

 

AHaaa! my mistake. The clock face size is one of the main reasons I went for this typre. The illuminated area is about 1-3/4" x  4". With some of the other types I looked at, the whole unit isn't that big.

 

P.S I think the speedo is a Chinese replica from a Honda CB500F.

This post was last modified: 05-10-2017, 09:28 PM by StrataMan.

[bjorge]

 

It's a new one on we too. The cush blocks on most bikes don't have these little dimples so are more resistant to wear but I have read on this forum someone having problems with carrier bearings, may be related.

 

 

Nice build ! Not quite my style, but I appreciate the aura of it 

 

I've minor problems with the sprocket carrier bearings as well, for some reason there is a play and it has been for more than 50,000kms now (I dodn't know if it was ever not there). I still get decent mileage out of C/S, being on my 2. set and still have more left on the 2.nd covering 60,000kms. So, nothing crritical here....

[StrataMan]

I've minor problems with the sprocket carrier bearings as well, for some reason there is a play and it has been for more than 50,000kms now (I dodn't know if it was ever not there). I still get decent mileage out of C/S, being on my 2. set and still have more left on the 2.nd covering 60,000kms. So, nothing crritical here....

 

This is the carrier from the eBay wheel. The bearing is good, it's the bearing seat that's worn. Doesn't seem to have worn the sprocket on the outside of the teeth though.

[attachment=o10330]

[Studley Ramrod]

Same problem I had on a previous carrier, the bearing seat was worn and allowing the bearing to spin.  I put it down to a previous owner neglecting to grease the rear axle.

[StrataMan]

Same problem I had on a previous carrier, the bearing seat was worn and allowing the bearing to spin.  I put it down to a previous owner neglecting to grease the rear axle.

 

I think the main purpose behind greasing the axle is to aid removal as you pull it through the wheel/carrier spacers and inner bearing races. When the axle nut is done up tight, all the spacers lock the inner bearing races so nothing actually turns directly on the axle when riding, it's the outer races that's connected to the wheel/carrier that turn. In our case, where the carrier seat is worn, this could be caused by either a seized bearing or excessive sideways (out of line) pull on the carrier. 

 

Looking at the pic above, let's say the direction of the chain pull is towards the left, the rear of the sprocket is pointing down and the front of the sprocket is pointing up, every half revolution of the wheel will swap these positions causing a wobble effect of the carrier on the fixed bearing.

 

There may only be a very small amount of play at first but multiply this 'wobble' movement by every time the wheel turns and you could soon have a knackered carrier or bearing, which ever weakens first.

[Superv500]

Hello everyone!



New TDM owner in East London, its a Mk2 in yellow and silver, and was In theYamaha press fleet in 1996. Really enjoying it for the short time Ive been riding it, needs a bit of work doing (emulsion tubes and needles...) and setting up for how I like my bikes to ride.



Came with a set of twin Yoshimura cans as well, and Im currently addicted to riding through tunnels.



Will be asking some questions about those emulsion tubes and needles elsewhere.

[dablik]

Hello and welcome to the site, loads of info carb related, use the search function to help, think your bike would sound much nicer with oem pipes and send those Yoshi's along to me

[alanfavell]

Greetings - check the oil often SuperV500

[Studley Ramrod]

Welcome to the club.

[drewpy]

welcome in