Rear Caliper Rebuild - Tdm900

[Guest]

<b>Well here we are,I recently promised someone I would do a write up for servicing a rear caliper,and seing as how I am stuck on a train for the next 3 hours I might as well do it now.

For this you will need :-
A caliper rebuild kit
8mm Combination spanner
12mm Combination spanner
A tool to fit your banjo bolt
An M8 nut and bolt

First thing to do is clean the rear end (oooerr), I know I haven't but I was in a bit of a hurry.
Once clean and dry push piston all the way back into the caliper body (if you are doing this repair you might find this difficult and requires the use of a G clamp or similar) then loosen the two mounting pins and the bleed nipple, now use adequate protection around swingarm area (I used jay cloths) to prevent brake fluid spills.</b>



<b>Get your M8 nut n bolt ready.
Undo banjo bolt and remove</b>



<b>Raise brake line and put nut and bolt through and tighten, this will prevent excess fluid loss and help with bleeding when re-assembling.</b>



<b>Remove rear pin</b>



<b>and rotate caliper clockwise(watch out for the brake fluid)</b>



<b>then withdraw caliper and remaining pin from caliper mount.</b>



<b>Removing the piston from the caliper is the hardest part of this job which is why I did it in work(access to an airline).
If you have the facility, compressed air is the easiest and quickest way to do this, just tighten the bleed nipple and apply compressed air to the hole you took the brake line from (see below).</b>



<b>If you don't have access to an air line it is possible to get something into the banjo bolt hole ( be careful not to damage the thread) and push out the piston far enough to be able to grab it from the outside with a pair of pliers and withdraw whilst twisting.
Once the piston is out remove the bleed nipple again.
This is what you will find</b>



<b>And the old piston compared to the new one.</b>



<b>Now remove both seals (Large oil seal and narrower dust seal) and wipe off excess brake fluid, then wash in hot soapy water until clean and dry thouroughly.
Once dry you will need to clean out both grooves (I used a small screwdriver) because there is a build up of oxides in there that need to be removed, be careful not to damage these grooves or the new seals will get damaged when you put them in. Also use an abrasive sponge (like the one in the kitchen) and clean the small face between where the the two seals fit.
The kit will comprise of these items,
1 oil seal
1 dust seal
1 piston
1 small pack of grease.</b>



<b>First put a small amount of grease on both seals and put into respective grooves, be careful with the dust seal (narrower one) as it is easy to get this twisted, then apply a light smear of grease to the area between the two seals and also a light smear onto the piston.
Now carefully push piston into the caliper, this can be a little tricky so be patient, it needs to go in squarely or it can get stuck.
Amost home free.
At this stage it might pay to remove the rubber boots from the caliper mount and clean and grease them and also clean out the holes in the mount an put some grease in there too, but be warned getting these boots back on is not for the short tempered.
After cleaning the boots( if you do) clean and grease the pins</b>



<b>and replace caliper onto bike.
Replace banjo(using new copper washers if required) and bleed nipple, bleed brakes(I always run two master cylinders of fluid through) and clean off any remaining brake fluid.
You should end up with something like this</b>




<b>I usually use the bike for about 100 miles then re-bleed as the seals will have had time to 'bed in' and you might find they have gone a little spongey.
Whole job took about 1hr 45mins</b>

This post was last modified: 24-06-2012, 07:38 AM by dapleb.

[drgre]

Well done!!! Great post!
Did you have to remove or loosen up a little the exhaust to get access to mounting pins?
When I changed my rare brake pads, I maneged to remove them without moving the pipe, but couldn't mount it back [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]
Is it just me and my left hands? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img]

[Guest]

<!--quoteo-->QUOTE<!--quotec-->Well done!!! Great post!
Did you have to remove or loosen up a little the exhaust to get access to mounting pins?
When I changed my rare brake pads, I maneged to remove them without moving the pipe, but couldn't mount it back
Is it just me and my left hands?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

No, thats why you only remove the one pin and leave the other one in the caliper and remove it as an assembly.

[Guest]

H & S ALERT

if you use compressed air to remove the piston from the caliper i would recommend you wear eye protection [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/excl.gif[/img]

last time i used this method i didn't get a very good seal into the banjo bolt hole and brake fluid sprayed back out of the hole covering my face [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img]

[Guest]

Guess I should also add:-

Don't put your fingers between the piston and bench cos when the piston pops out it'll really hurt, trust me on this [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[Matlock]

Excellent write-up CB, many thanks. Is the caliper rebuild kit an OEM Yamaha one, or from another supplier? What was the cost of the parts and where did you get them from?

[Guest]

OEM parts from my local dealer, cost £18 for the kit

[Matlock]

<!--quoteo(post=111507:date=Tue 17th Feb 2009, 11:32 AM:name=celticbiker)-->QUOTE(celticbiker @ Tue 17th Feb 2009, 11:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->OEM parts from my local dealer, cost £18 for the kit<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Thanks CB, I noticed my rear caliper piston was getting pitted last time I cleaned it, so I guess I'm going to need to do this soon (ish). I guess similar kits are available for the front calipers if they need doing too?

[Guest]

Yeh I think mine might need doing next year but they are far more arkward so I'm going to leave them as long as possible.

[dapleb]

Moved to the old Knowledge Base with the old.

[dmmsta]

Having just done this...

...thanks to CB for the How To, VERY useful.

Regarding the air line to help get the piston out, I used a tyre compressor (the ones you keep in the boot of the car that run off the fag lighter socket) with very successful results.

Needed the lilo attachment, and a bit of elec tape to get the seal round the banjo bolt hole, but worked a treat.

[stu]

Would it not be easier removing the caliper with the line attached then pumping out the piston using the pedal?


I'm asking cos I'm gonna have to do mine soon.

[dmmsta]

That would work, but then brake fluid is the problem...

I detached the Banjo as per the how to, wasn't too bad only a wee dribble when I disconnected.

Then lift the whole caliper off and drain / pour the remaining fluid into your preferred container.

Then you just blow the piston out. For me, it seemed the easiest solution, as it was a cleaner approach than potential BF everywhere. Not sure mum would be happy about fluid on the patio [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

I guess it's all subjective and depends on your preference. Only down side was getting at the rear Master Cyl, not sure if there is supposed to be an "easy" access, but it's was one of those need a 3rd arm situ [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

[magneto]

Sorry if you all knew this already but carb model YZF-R6 rear calipers fit TDM 900's. Twin dual diameter piston jobs and they don't cost much either.

[leehenty]

Erm since the banjo is M10 would it not make sense to use a M10 bolt and two copper washers to keep the fluid in ?

[celticbiker]

Yeh but I just happened to have an M8 in my pocket at the time.

[blackspot]

hi

my rear brake caliper developed a leak from one of the pistons

problem is, i`m in a small town on a vacation and there aren`t many shops with spare parts...

I would like to ask my friends to buy me a set of these two seals in my hometown [Belgrade, Serbia] and send it to me here so that I can replace it before heading back home

trouble is, I can`t find exact dimensions of those seals, my TDM mkII is 2000. [4TX]

does anyone know these dimensions?

thanks for your time [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

[Studley Ramrod]

<!--quoteo(post=218399:date=Sun 21st Aug 2011, 11:12 AM:name=blackspot)-->QUOTE(blackspot @ Sun 21st Aug 2011, 11:12 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->hi

my rear brake caliper developed a leak from one of the pistons

problem is, i`m in a small town on a vacation and there aren`t many shops with spare parts...

I would like to ask my friends to buy me a set of these two seals in my hometown [Belgrade, Serbia] and send it to me here so that I can replace it before heading back home

trouble is, I can`t find exact dimensions of those seals, my TDM mkII is 2000. [4TX]

does anyone know these dimensions?

thanks for your time [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Just measured some to the best of my ability and I got......

The seals 43mm id x 47mm od x 2mm
Dust covers 43mm id x 49mm od x 3mm

Hope this helps [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

[blackspot]

thank you very much Ramrod!

tomorrow,my friends in Belgrade will call every bike parts shop and if it exists i will have the seals in time [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

[navar66]

Hi Guy's sorry but I'm a bit of a thick bugger. I don't need to overhaul my rear brake but do need to change the pads. After checking the usual stops of the internet and having found a video related to this subject. The chap removed the 2 retaining bolts on the calliper, just wanted to make sure that this is legit and not something that's just been made up for my benefit  

 

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&...8kwzrLYmLA