bondy
Ford Zetec?
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Ford Zetec?
Now, there be some clever types on this ere forum so I'd like to pick the collective brain cells.

 

Some may know I have a Westfield 7. It's a 2004 built car which was fitted with brand new 1800 injected zetec engine. It has an aftermarket ECU (MBE967) which isn't supported by anyone near me. I have down loaded some software (easimap6) but doesn't make any sense to this luddite.

 

The problem I have is:

A miss fire/stuttering when it reachs about 2700rpm and then clears at about 3500rpm and runs clean again. It also hunts at idle when warm.

What I've done so far:

Check plugs, all clean and gapped correctly, 1.3mm

HT leads all good

Put on a new coil pack which made run little worse

New crank case sensor

Sprayed contact cleaner around all the inlet manifold to see if it's sucking in air.

 

If the cambelt was changed by the previous owner and it's a tooth or two out would this cause the problem.

Anyone got any other idea's.

 

Ta

Bondy.

 

[Image: 15295455.jpg]
No expert but, that ecu requires some clever people usually with a rolling road to set up correctly. This alone could cause all sorts of dead spots, misfires and the like as it controls the ignition and fueling maps.

I'd guess that engine has had lifted cams put in? This can cause a bit of hunting at low revs but should be sorted again when the ecu correctly is set up.



Won't hurt checking the cam timing if you think someones been in there as it could cause a lack of power amongst other things. If they are after market cams there could be some special set up notes for them too.

2002 TDM900 Yellow
Quote:No expert but, that ecu requires some clever people usually with a rolling road to set up correctly. This alone could cause all sorts of dead spots, misfires and the like as it controls the ignition and fueling maps.

I'd guess that engine has had lifted cams put in? This can cause a bit of hunting at low revs but should be sorted again when the ecu correctly is set up.



Won't hurt checking the cam timing if you think someones been in there as it could cause a lack of power amongst other things. If they are after market cams there could be some special set up notes for them too.
Standard cams as far as I can see from the build doc's and know one near me who does rolling road tuning has the software

Edit to the original post. It's fuel injected.

[Image: 15295455.jpg]
If cam timing was a tooth or two out it would be gutless at top end.

Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.

Save the planet, it's the only one with beer!
Quote:If cam timing was a tooth or two out it would be gutless at top end.

depends which way tooth was out surely
TDM 1991 - two into one micron mated with a A16 Road and Race Supplies Stainless short can - Conti Road Attacks - Kagazume Wavy Rear Disc - Bagster tank cover - homemade sheepskin seat cover on top of custom seat cover - NonFango topbox on homemade mount - custom fusebox - very loud airhorn and cyclone alarm

It's quite surprising how far you can move the cam timing to shift the power in the rev range but not normally over a ford T belt tooth worth, which is why I mention notes from cam manufacturers.

 

 

Keyless cam wheels on the Zetecs to so you can set them anywhere you like.

2002 TDM900 Yellow
Does it have a cam position sensor ?

If so I think you can run with it disconnected, safely, when the ECU will pick a default value for ignition timing after that. It will allow the elimination of some suspect components if disconnecting the sensor makes no difference to the way it runs

<p style="text-align:center;">Ohlins, PC3, fuel cut defeat, +4deg timing, 17" front wheel.


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