Original blog: Studley's Bloggerydoodaah
[b]Weather kinda delayed progress in splitting the crankcase but I finally managed to get the tool I needed for the job.The main challenge in splitting 'em is removing the alternator rotor. I needed summat to stop the rotor from turning and a puller that was strong enough to use on the rotor.Stopping the rotor from turning was a doddle, I used a block of timber and a suitable diameter rod/bar partly wrapped in amalgamating tape.[b]Placed the small end of the conrod through the hole in the wood and put the bar through the small end like so
This allowed me to remove the rotor bolt on me tod, another pair o hands would have been useful tho !The puller I opted for was a diy jobbie..... I got a 10cmx10cm square, 10mm thick plate with 3 8mm holes and an 18mm centre hole. I then had an 18mm nut welded over the centre hole.[b]The three 8mm bolts that screwed into the rotor were originally 65mm long which was too short. I did try using them but ended up pulling the weld on the nut as I had the plate on the wrong way around.[b]Another 18mm nut was welded in place and I got three 90mm length bolts. This time the plate was the correct way round with the nut below the plate.
Using the plug Leehenty had made to go in the end of the crank, I just tightened up the puller until I couldn't turn it any further then applied some heat to the centre of the rotor.[b]After a few minutes off she popped 
After that it was relatively straightforward, apart from removing the balancer shafts, both of the torx screws wouldn't budge so I ended up drilling the heads off them.[b]Another 3 torx screws hold the plate for the drive shaft but these came out easily with a good Stanley T.30 torx bit.29 bolts to undo and wehoooo !
Next job......inspecting the gearbox
[b]Weather kinda delayed progress in splitting the crankcase but I finally managed to get the tool I needed for the job.The main challenge in splitting 'em is removing the alternator rotor. I needed summat to stop the rotor from turning and a puller that was strong enough to use on the rotor.Stopping the rotor from turning was a doddle, I used a block of timber and a suitable diameter rod/bar partly wrapped in amalgamating tape.[b]Placed the small end of the conrod through the hole in the wood and put the bar through the small end like so
This allowed me to remove the rotor bolt on me tod, another pair o hands would have been useful tho !The puller I opted for was a diy jobbie..... I got a 10cmx10cm square, 10mm thick plate with 3 8mm holes and an 18mm centre hole. I then had an 18mm nut welded over the centre hole.[b]The three 8mm bolts that screwed into the rotor were originally 65mm long which was too short. I did try using them but ended up pulling the weld on the nut as I had the plate on the wrong way around.[b]Another 18mm nut was welded in place and I got three 90mm length bolts. This time the plate was the correct way round with the nut below the plate.
Using the plug Leehenty had made to go in the end of the crank, I just tightened up the puller until I couldn't turn it any further then applied some heat to the centre of the rotor.[b]After a few minutes off she popped 
After that it was relatively straightforward, apart from removing the balancer shafts, both of the torx screws wouldn't budge so I ended up drilling the heads off them.[b]Another 3 torx screws hold the plate for the drive shaft but these came out easily with a good Stanley T.30 torx bit.29 bolts to undo and wehoooo !
Next job......inspecting the gearbox

