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+---- Thread: Service On A 9er (/showthread.php?tid=27003)
Service On A 9er - Guest - 23-01-2009
Having recently done a service on the bike, I thought I would put it together with some pictures, so here goes.
Oil change-:
Take bike out for a 30 minute ride to get the oil nice and hot and any debris well suspended in it, you can just warm it in the workshop but I find a ride better (and more fun) .
After allowing bike to cool for 10-15 minutes remove the dipstick and put to one side, then remove drain bolt on left side of engine and drain the small sump, you will only get about 200 ml from here.
![[Image: 1.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/1.jpg)
When empty replace and torque drain bolt ( 35Nm) and clean exhaust, .
Then remove drain bolt from the left hand side of bike just behind the filter housing.
![[Image: 2.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/2.jpg)
This will drain the oil tank, so you will get about 3.5 litres from here. When empty do not replace the drain bolt yet.
Next, remove the 5 allen bolts from the filter housing, starting at the front and working back.
Then remove housing (1) and filter element (2) (this contains about 100ml of oil and it will go everywhere)
Be sure to retain the little tube and O ring from the front.
![[Image: 3.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/3.jpg)
After cleaning and drying filter housing (petrol or paraffin is good) put new O ring (3) and filter (2) in place (tube on the filter element goes into the hole in the bottom of the housing)
![[Image: 4.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/4.jpg)
Now place small tube and O ring from earlier into the hole at the front of the housing.
Wipe mounting faces on engine with lint free cloth and replace housing assembly, tightening the 2 centre bolts first then the rear one then the 2 front ones (torque to 10Nm).
Now wipe mounting face for drain bolt and replace and torque (30Nm).
Fill oil tank with 3L of oil to start with, replace dipstick and start engine, rev engine 4 or 5 times and then switch off.
Now top up to specified level (should take another 900ml).
Loosen oil gallery bolt on left hand side of engine
![[Image: 5.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/5.jpg)
And start engine, allow to idle, and check that oil seeps from gallery bolt. If all is OK then retighten gallery bolt (10Nm).
If no oil appears after 1 minute, stop engine and check filter is correct and there is nothing blocking the oil way in the filter housing.
<!--coloro:#0000FF--><!--/coloro--><!--sizeo:4--><!--/sizeo-->Plug replacement<!--sizec-->
<!--/sizec--><!--colorc--><!--/colorc-->-:
Now this one is a little tricky and the photos didnât come out too good either but Iâll do my best.
First remove side panels.
Undo the 3 screws on the side
![[Image: 6.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/6.jpg)
And the two on the top
![[Image: 7.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/7.jpg)
Make a note of which come from where. Then remove the one on the inside by the fork leg
![[Image: 8.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/8.jpg)
Now look underneath the side panel and you will see a plastic plug holding it to a bracket, this needs to be pushed out from the inside (donât lose the centre pin).
The side panel will now slide back about 10mm and lift up to about 30 degrees
![[Image: 9.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/9.jpg)
Allowing you to remove the tang from the slot.
![[Image: 10.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/10.jpg)
Next, remove the bolts holding the radiator to the brackets and remove the brackets from the frame.
Also remove hoses from radiator (as marked) and secure vertically (or the coolant will siphon out of the expansion tank)
Right side
![[Image: 11.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/11.jpg)
And left side
![[Image: 12.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/12.jpg)
And top ( 2 off)
![[Image: 13.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/13.jpg)
Now you can get to the plug caps to remove them.
The radiator will also move forward just enough to get the plug spanner behind it and down the hole onto the plug (make sure the rubber insert is in the plug spanner as you need this to grip the plug to lift it out of the hole)
![[Image: 14.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/14.jpg)
Yours will move a bit further than mine as you can see my engine bars are in the way.
When plugs are changed, replace plug caps, brackets and radiator.
While everything is off, if you need to change the coolant, now would be a good time.
<!--coloro:#0000FF--><!--/coloro--><!--sizeo:4--><!--/sizeo-->Coolant change<!--sizec-->
<!--/sizec--><!--colorc--><!--/colorc-->-:
I didnât do this job at the time so I just lifted this straight from the workshop manual.
![[Image: 15.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/15.jpg)
![[Image: 16.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/16.jpg)
![[Image: 17.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/17.jpg)
<!--coloro:#0000FF--><!--/coloro--><!--sizeo:4--><!--/sizeo-->Air filter<!--sizec-->
<!--/sizec--><!--colorc--><!--/colorc-->-:
I only change the plugs every 24,000 miles because (a) theyâre a pain in the arse and (b) they donât really need to be done any more frequently, so while Iâve got the side panels off I change the air filter (or if itâs a K&N, clean it) too because itâs only a 10 minute job.
First remove seat, and then undo and remove the two small infill panels
![[Image: 18.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/18.jpg)
Then remove the bolts securing the tank (one either side)
![[Image: 19.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/19.jpg)
Then lift and secure tank in upright position (I use a bungee or similar)
![[Image: 20.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/20.jpg)
Remove vacuum hose (and block with something if you wish to do the air box mod at the same time)
And undo the 8 screws securing the lid.
![[Image: 21.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/21.jpg)
Remove lid
![[Image: 22.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/22.jpg)
Then filter element
![[Image: 23.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/23.jpg)
Check for and remove any excessive oil (a small amount is normal as this is where the oil tank breather goes to)
![[Image: 24.jpg]](http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/24.jpg)
Insert new Filter element, replace lid and screws and vacuum hose
When replacing tank, be sure that the drain and vacuum pipes coming off the bottom of the tank donât get trapped or kinked, and remember to pull them through the guide loop next to the side stand pivot so that a fuel overflow doesnât drain onto the hot exhaust.
We are almost done.
Put everything back together and ride the bike to get it up to operating temperature, then adjust idle speed if required.
With this done we can then synchronize the throttle bodies.
Except I forgot to take pictures so I will write this up another time.
Service On A 9er - shaftdrive - 24-01-2009
excellent pictures [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img] and description [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img] as i will be doing this in a couple of weeks and i didnt realise that there were two drain bolts , [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/drinks.gif[/img]
Service On A 9er - dapleb - 24-01-2009
Nice wan CB, alot of work has gone into that so thanks for sharin. Should probably be put in knowledgebase once peeps have had a chance to comment if thats ok wid you?
The only tiny difference i do on oil change is to entirely remove gallery bolt until claggy oil runs clear. Probably makes
No difference but very satisfying.
I might write a mk1 plug removal guide. Get spanner, remove plug.
Thanks again CB.
Service On A 9er - Guest - 24-01-2009
Great write up, will be very useful. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Service On A 9er - sidestand - 24-01-2009
Yes, that will come in very useful when I take possession of me niner in a week or so [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img]
Thanks very much for taking the time & effort CB
Service On A 9er - aircooled68 - 24-01-2009
Nice Write up [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img]
Service On A 9er - Nig - 24-01-2009
Good bit of script there - i did,nt know about the gallery bolt for the oil so will check it out on next service.
I would also be interested in synchro of throttle bodies as i have no idea how to do this as well.
(well i never said i was a mechnacnic)
Nig
Service On A 9er - Guest - 24-01-2009
Thanx for the support peeps, as you can see from the date on the pics I did this a while ago and wrote it up on my PC but have only just got around to posting it.
<!--quoteo(post=109255:date=Sat 24th Jan 2009, 10:17 AM:name=dapleb)-->QUOTE(dapleb @ Sat 24th Jan 2009, 10:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Nice wan CB, alot of work has gone into that so thanks for sharin. Should probably be put in knowledgebase once peeps have had a chance to comment if thats ok wid you? <!--coloro:#0000FF--><!--/coloro-->Thats fine so long as I can amend it later for throttle body synch.<!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc-->
The only tiny difference i do on oil change is to entirely remove gallery bolt until claggy oil runs clear. Probably makes
No difference but very satisfying.
I might write a mk1 plug removal guide. Get spanner, remove plug.
Thanks again CB.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
<!--quoteo(post=109272:date=Sat 24th Jan 2009, 02:36 PM:name=Nig)-->QUOTE(Nig @ Sat 24th Jan 2009, 02:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Good bit of script there - i did,nt know about the gallery bolt for the oil so will check it out on next service.
I would also be interested in synchro of throttle bodies as i have no idea how to do this as well.
(well i never said i was a mechnacnic)
Nig<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Nig, some one else did a bit on this recently, I will update when I do it but for now I'll see if I can find the topic for you.
Edit-: Had a look Nig but can't find it right now
Service On A 9er - tdm850rider - 24-01-2009
<!--quoteo(post=109255:date=Sat 24th Jan 2009, 05:17 AM:name=dapleb)-->QUOTE(dapleb @ Sat 24th Jan 2009, 05:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec--><!--coloro:#FF0000--><!--/coloro-->Should probably be put in knowledgebase<!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc-->
once peeps have had a chance to comment if thats ok wid you?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
<!--coloro:#FF0000--><!--/coloro-->Agreed<!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc-->. (Good one CB). [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/good.gif[/img]
Service On A 9er - dapleb - 24-01-2009
Sure we can add TB sync or put it in a seperate article.
Service On A 9er - Guest - 24-01-2009
K
Service On A 9er - tdm850rider - 24-01-2009
<!--quoteo(post=109296:date=Sat 24th Jan 2009, 01:47 PM:name=celticbiker)-->QUOTE(celticbiker @ Sat 24th Jan 2009, 01:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->K<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ohmy.gif[/img]
Service On A 9er - fiasco - 24-01-2009
Brilliant info, thanks CB [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/drinks.gif[/img]
I didn't know about the gallery plug either, and it transpires that my fasteners by the fork legs are missing, are they the plastic pop rivets like on the underneath bracket of the left fairing, or screws like the outer fairing ones ?
Thanks again
Dave
Service On A 9er - Guest - 24-01-2009
They're actually large diameter self tappers/wood screws, about 5 or 6mm IIRC and they should screw into those metal clip type things.
One of mine was missing too, I think they forget to put them back in after a service.
<!--quoteo-->QUOTE<!--quotec-->are they the plastic pop rivets like on the underneath bracket of the left fairing<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
There should be one on the RH panel too.
Service On A 9er - GrahamI - 03-02-2009
Great write up CB, nice to have pics as well as the words, makes it a lot easier for first timers [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
Just a small point, when I remove the panels etc I find putting the screws back in to their holes makes it easier to remember which goes where, and you avoid tipping them all over the floor!
Service On A 9er - TDMTAM - 03-02-2009
<!--quoteo(post=109248:date=Fri 23rd Jan 2009, 10:50 PM:name=celticbiker)-->QUOTE(celticbiker @ Fri 23rd Jan 2009, 10:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->
.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I wonder why the 2 inlet stacks are of different length??????
TAM
Service On A 9er - Guest - 03-02-2009
Almost all modern bikes are like this.
IIRC it's to do with airflow within the box and making sure that each cylinder gets enough air.
The reason an air box is used is to create a plenum chamber because an engine will always run better pulling on still air than on moving air(like the one filter one per carb set up) so in this case the RH one sucks at top right where the air comes in leaving most of the LH side alone, when the LH side sucks there is relatively still air for it to pull into the cylinder.
Make sense?
Service On A 9er - GIBBO - 03-02-2009
Thank you very much for this write up, it's the kind of thing I need when spannering, but may I add the following? "I only change the plugs every 24,000 miles because (a) theyâre a pain in the arse" [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img] That is an understatement. <ol type='1'>[*]find plug spanner in tool box.[*]realise it's an 1/2 drive socket and not 3/8 like the rest of the socket set[*]set off to local auto bit shop for correct sized plug spanner.[*]return home[*]insert 3/8 extension bar into new 3/8 plug spanner[*]swear loudly, profusly [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ranting.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ranting.gif[/img] when seeing the bar is too long to allow said plug spanner to go into hole where spark plug located.[*]return to local auto shop, buy umpteen different bits of sockets and extensions[*]return home work out which bit goes with what [*]remove plug's to find the are a o.k. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blush.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ranting.gif[/img]</ol>
Service On A 9er - GrahamI - 03-02-2009
<!--quoteo(post=110176:date=Tue 3rd Feb 2009, 08:16 PM:name=GIBBO)-->QUOTE(GIBBO @ Tue 3rd Feb 2009, 08:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->"I only change the plugs every 24,000 miles because (a) theyâre a pain in the arse" [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rotflmmfao.gif[/img] That is an understatement, May I add the following, <ol type='1'>[*]find plug spanner in tool box.[*]realise it's an 1/2 drive socket and not 3/8 like the rest of the socket set[*]set off to local auto bit shop for correct sized plug spanner.[*]return home[*]insert 3/8 extension bar into new 3/8 plug spanner[*]swear loudly, profusly [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ranting.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ranting.gif[/img] when seeing the bar is too long to allow said plug spanner to go into hole where spark plug located.[*]return to local auto shop, buy umpteen different bits of sockets and extensions
<!--coloro:#FF0000--><!--/coloro-->[*]return home work out which bit goes with what <!--colorc-->
<!--/colorc-->[*]remove plug's to find the are a o.k. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blush.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ranting.gif[/img]</ol><!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
So which bits were needed? Not taken the plugs out yet
Service On A 9er - GIBBO - 03-02-2009
<!--quoteo(post=110178:date=Tue 3rd Feb 2009, 08:23 PM:name=GrahamI)-->QUOTE(GrahamI @ Tue 3rd Feb 2009, 08:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->So which bits were needed? Not taken the plugs out yet<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I ended up using a 3" extension bar on the plug socket